Blue-green algae are also known as slime algae due to their consistency. They used to be counted among the algae and are still often referred to as such today. In the biological sense, however, it is not a type of algae: blue-green algae are cyanobacteria. However, they have one thing in common with algae: in the aquarium, they are formed as a result of an imbalance in the water chemistry. Blue-green algae or slime algae are usually colored green-grey to brown-blue. They are easily recognized by their characteristic appearance.

Which aquarium plants are attacked by blue-green algae?

Blue-green algae attack all kinds of aquarium plants. They particularly like to perch on the leaves. A coating of slimy algae prevents plants from photosynthesizing and thus from nutrient uptake. If a plant in the aquarium is completely covered by them, it will soon wither – unless you help the plant quickly. Fortunately, the blue or slime algae are usually easy to eliminate.

Help plants affected by blue-green algae quickly – otherwise the bacteria will continue to thrive and the causes of the algae infestation will be further aggravated.

How are blue-green algae formed in the aquarium?

Just like aquarium plants and algae, which belong to the lower plants, blue-green algae need one thing above all to grow: light. Just like plants, they make their food by using photosynthesis, i.e. converting light energy into food.

Algae already have the advantage over aquarium plants that they make fewer demands on their environment and still thrive whereas aquatic plants are already reacting with reduced growth. Cyanobacteria (or blue-green algae or slime algae) are an even stronger competitor: while plants can only use a part of the light spectrum for photosynthesis, blue-green algae are able to utilize the light spectrum almost completely.

A problem for aquarium owners is that blue-green algae not only compete with the aquarium plants and prevent them from photosynthesizing, which further exacerbates the problem: the inhabitants of the aquarium can also be endangered by cyanobacteria. They often release toxins, i.e. poisonous substances.

Facts about cyanobacteria

• Some cyanobacteria do not produce oxygen during photosynthesis.
• Many species engage in nitrogen oxidation: nitrogen (N2) is converted into ammonium (NH4 +).
• Cyanobacteria produce very different toxins.

Caution: Blue-green or slime algae are not only a threat to aquarium plants, but also to animals and invertebrates that are kept in the aquarium.

Identify blue-green algae in the aquarium

Thanks to their typical properties, blue-green algae are usually easy to identify.

Odor. Do you notice an unpleasant, putrid, musty smell when you open the aquarium?
Looks. Can you see greasy deposits that are not rich green but rather dark green or bluish?
texture
Do decorative items covered by the algae feel greasy or slippery?

Based on these characteristics, blue-green algae can be easily distinguished from other, real types of algae such as green algae.

Eliminating the cause and combating it

There can be reasons for an infestation with cyanobacteria

• Water changes done too infrequently or too little
• Inadequate maintenance of the aquarium
• Too many fish and/or invertebrates
• Feeding too much and/or too often
• Lighting too intense or too long
• Filter performance too high (phosphate values ​​increase sharply)

First step: If you discover blue-green algae in your aquarium, immediately check all the important factors. You can also find more tips in our article on algae in the aquarium.

Second step: An increased phosphate value should be reduced immediately by throttling the filter system. If this is done, you have already laid the foundation for the removal of the blue-green algae.

Third step: Remove the existing blue-green algae from the aquarium as thoroughly as possible – by skimming them off, sucking them off with a hose, or cleaning the infested surfaces.

A dark cure against blue-green algae infestation

Have you carried out all the measures but still not been able to get rid of the blue-green algae?
Then try a so-called dark cure.

To do this, proceed as follows:

• Water change of at least 80 percent of the pool contents
• Additional aeration of the aquarium using a membrane pump
• throttling of filter performance
• Setting the CO2 fertilization, if available

Once these preparations have been made, cover the aquarium completely so that no more light can get in – for example with a blanket or with cardboard on the aquarium panes. Do not feed your fish or feed them as little as possible during the dark cure. After three days of dark cure, change the water (up to 50 percent), after seven days you can illuminate the pool again. Perform a water change of up to 90 percent again.

If the dark cure was successful, the cynobacteria, blue-green algae, or slime algae in your aquarium should now be eliminated. The advantage of this method is: It does not require any chemical algaecides. In principle, these should only be used if the causes of an algae infestation have been identified and eliminated.

We are happy if we could help you with our information and tips on blue-green algae and how to combat them. What is your experience with cyanobacteria? We look forward to your comments!

Brown algae and diatoms like to settle in newly set up aquariums. They usually disappear by themselves as soon as the biological balance in the tank is established and the water parameters stabilize. In the start-up phase of aquariums, the diatom is clearly one of the most frequently occurring types of algae. Here we explain how they fight the algae and identify them reliably.

Brown algae/diatoms in the aquarium

The good news for aquarium owners who discover brown or diatoms in their tank: They do not pose any direct danger to the inhabitants of the aquarium – unlike, for example, the so-called blue-green algae, which produce toxins. These can threaten aquarium inhabitants and aquatic plants.
Compared to other types of algae, such as brush or beard algae, diatoms are relatively easy to remove and enter if the water conditions are not affected by e.g. B. abruptly change a very large water change, usually not again.

Even if the diatom is one of the harmless algae, it should be fought early. However, if you discover algae or growths in your aquarium, these must first be identified, because the first step in combating algae is always the correct determination of the type of algae.

Especially if you have a newly set up tank, it is likely that it is harmless brown algae or diatoms. However, it is important to be safe. Only when you can reliably identify the type of algae can you decide whether immediate action is necessary. With diatoms, it is also possible to wait until the problem resolves itself. This can be fatal for other types of algae.

How to recognize the brown algae or diatom:

The diatom is brown in color and forms greasy, unsightly carpets on the substrate, windows, stones, and plants. If it hasn’t disappeared even after the running-in phase, it can be assumed that there is an imbalance in the pelvis that needs to be specifically combated. Sometimes aquarists only notice the brown algae when they say: The aquarium plants are turning brown. In truth, the plants themselves do not discolor but are overgrown by the diatoms.
Read more: Our further article explains further information about different algae in the aquarium. There you will find out, for example, how you can avoid algae in the aquarium or which types of algae can appear in the aquarium.

Common causes for the appearance of brown algae/diatoms

The occurrence of brown algae or diatoms during the start-up period of the aquarium is not uncommon and also not a real threat, as it usually disappears on its own.

However, if the diatoms remain in the aquarium well beyond the tank’s break-in period or only appear months later, you should act. Check the most important parameters and correct them if necessary. You can find more tips on this in our article on combating algae in the aquarium.

The occurrence of brown algae/diatoms is favored by

• unsuitable water values
• obsolete or inappropriate light bulbs
• wrong lighting times
• neglected pelvic care
• too high phosphate levels

Diatoms or brown algae feel particularly comfortable in tanks with weak lighting. Here it is important to intensify the type of lighting, extend the lighting time, or replace the lamps, taking into account the needs of all pool residents. But be careful: the lighting must not be too strong either, otherwise other types of algae could feel invited.

Tip: The light spectrum of fluorescent tubes changes with increased service life. Change the bulbs at regular intervals. In this way, you ensure optimal lighting at all times.

Neglecting the care of the aquarium also creates good conditions for the occurrence of brown algae or diatoms. Carry out regular partial water changes, depending on the size of the pool, at weekly or bi-weekly intervals. Depending on the stock type and density, clean the filter and the filter material regularly every four to six weeks – but never at the same time as changing the water.

Successfully combat brown algae/diatoms

Brown algae or diatoms can be removed manually quite easily, as they do not stick to the substrate as stubbornly as brush or beard algae. Diatoms can easily be wiped off aquarium panes or other surfaces. You can also easily vacuum them off the substrate.
After wiping and vacuuming, a larger partial water change (up to 80 percent of the pool contents) follows, during which many of the algae parts floating in the water are removed. If you carry out the steps of wiping, vacuuming, and partial water changes on several days in a row, most of the diatoms should be eliminated. It is now a matter of permanently preventing their return by ensuring optimal conditions in your aquarium.

How to eliminate stubborn brown algae/diatoms

If the algae have spread a lot, manual removal is not a sufficient solution. If more diatoms appear in your aquarium outside of the start-up phase, you have to resort to other means.

The method of “dark cure”, the darkening of the aquarium for several days, which is successful with many other types of algae, is unfortunately of little help with diatoms, as they can get by with very little light for a long time.

If you cannot permanently get rid of the diatoms or brown algae by extensively changing the water and adjusting the water parameters, the only option is to use chemical agents. However, you should only use these if you have checked all parameters thoroughly and the manual methods of combating algae remain ineffective.

Remember: A treatment with chemical agents represents a significant intervention in the balance of the aquarium and is therefore always an emergency solution. If you cannot get the algae under control in any other way, you can use AlgExit from Easy Life, which, according to the manufacturer, is also effective against other types of algae in addition to diatoms.

It is always best to do without chemical algaecides. If you take good care of your aquarium and keep the water values ​​in an optimal balance, you will succeed in most cases.
We wish you every success in eliminating the brown algae or diatoms in your aquarium and hope that we have been able to help you with our tips. What are your experiences with brown algae? We look forward to your contributions and comments!

If you set up a new aquarium or want to ban algae from your tank, you should use plants that grow as quickly as possible. Due to their rapid growth, the aquarium plants remove excess nutrients from the water and at the same time ensure a good supply of oxygen. In tanks without a filter, fast-growing aquarium plants are also indispensable.

Especially among the stem plants, which are offered in bunches or rooted in pots, there are many species that convince with their fast growth. But even among the rosette and rhizome plants, some representatives convince of a high growth rate. We would like to present a short profile of some aquatic plants for the aquarium, which are among the particularly fast-growing aquarium plants.

Profiles for aquarium plants: fast-growing and easy to care for

False water friend – Gymnocoronis spilanthoides

The “false water lover” is a hardy marsh plant. In the aquarium, she is an undemanding and grateful fosterling. The stem plant can reach a height of more than one meter. In the aquarium, the shoot tips of the false water friend are regularly shortened, which also leads to denser growth. The plant forms roots on the lower leaf bases, which draw excess nutrients from the water. Therefore, it is a popular nutrient consumer and is ideal for initial planting and algae control.

Tip: If you like the plant, you should also take a look at the giant water friend Hygrophila corymbose, also called the cherry leaf plant. We can also particularly recommend this as a fast-growing aquarium plant.

False water friend, Gymnocoronis spilanthoides

Gymnocoronis spilanthoides is a flexible aquarium plant that adapts readily to its surroundings. Beginners get along well with the species from South America, professional aquarists appreciate its decorative appearance.
The light green foliage of Gymnocoronis spilanthoides creates beautiful contrasts in the aquarium, especially in combination with reddish plants. At a height of up to one meter, Gymnocoronis spilanthoides has to be shortened occasionally, otherwise, the shoots will grow above the water surface, which also sets accents. Emers may develop white inflorescences that eventually give rise to seeds.

Purple Parrot Leaf – Alternanthera reineckii rosaefolia or “Pink”

The purple parrot leaf forms a nice contrast to other aquarium plants. Its interesting growth habit and the nicely colored red undersides of the leaves characterize its characteristic appearance. New shoots constantly sprout from the leaf axils – this creates a dense growth. This can also be stimulated by propagating top cuttings, which causes the mother plant to form new side shoots. The parrot leaf loves bright locations. If kept too dark, the spaces between the leaves will increase as the plant attempts to grow rapidly towards the light.

Asian Water Screw – Vallisneria Asiatica

Various Valliserie species can be found in our aquariums and embellish the middle ground and background there. The easy-care and fast-growing aquarium plant is happy about a good supply of light and is otherwise quite undemanding. It prefers harder water and is therefore a popular plant for the perch aquarium. Depending on the species, Vallisneria can reach a considerable length and are therefore also ideal for large tanks. In small pools, they quickly flood in the current. Propagation takes place via subterranean offshoots that can be separated and replanted.

Brazilian Pennywort, Hydrocotyle leucocephala

The Brazilian pennywort is a popular aquarium plant that scores with its versatility:
It can be cultivated both as a flooding plant and planted, with regular pruning it is also suitable for the foreground, can grow climbing around roots and other decorative objects, and can even green a Hamburg mat filter. Floating on the surface, the Brazilian pennywort also makes a good floating plant. It is extremely adaptable and robust and an ideal plant for algae control or for the first time in the aquarium.

Brazilian pennywort – Hydrocotyle leucocephala XL plant

A very undemanding stem plant is the “Brazilian pennywort” Hydrocotyle leucocephala. The Dennerle plant collectors discovered the plant in the shallow water of crystal-clear rivers, but also in the damp underground of the dense jungle. It grows very quickly in the aquarium and is highly recommended for beginners. As soon as the shoots have reached the water surface, they continue to grow in a flooding manner. Due to the rapid growth, the stems often have to be shortened and replanted.

Waterweed – Egeria densa

The lush green plant, which is also native to us, originally comes from South America. It is one of the most popular fast-growing aquarium plants and is also often found in garden ponds. It feels just as comfortable floating as it does plant and makes hardly any demands on the keeping conditions – the ideal aquarium plant even for beginners. Propagation is by cuttings planted in the ground. This quickly creates a pretty, dense growth. The dark green color and the fine leaves contrast nicely with the rest of the planting.

Amazon sword plants – e.g. B. Echinodorus barthii or Echinodorus Ocelot Green

Echinodorus plants have long been extremely popular as aquarium plants. As a solitary plant, they are a wonderful eye-catcher in the aquarium. However, they need good lighting and a supply of CO2 for rapid growth. With good light and nutrient conditions, they grow very quickly and reach an impressive size. The rosette plant likes to spread, especially in width, so the outer leaves may need to be trimmed. Propagation takes place via adventitious plants (small plants that form on the mother plant) or via rhizome division.

Tip: If you buy plants in a bunch, they will take a while to develop roots. Only then do they grow as fast as they used to. This waiting time does not apply to rooted potted plants.
There are many other fast-growing aquarium plants that we can recommend. If you are looking for new plants for your aquarium, your specialist dealer will certainly be happy to advise you on the selection.

Which aquatic plants grow fastest in your tank? We look forward to reports and comments!

The Cryptocoryne genus, also known as the water goblet among aquarists, is widespread in nature in tropical Southeast Asia. About 60 species are currently recognized. Everything you should know about the popular aquatic plant can be found in this article.

Cryptocoryne (water cups) in nature

Many of the species known to aquarists come from Sri Lanka. For example, Cryptocoryne beckettii, C. wendtii, C. undulata, C. walkeri, C. willisii and C. parva grow on this island. In India, we find the long-leaved species Cryptocoryne spiralis, C. crispatula, C. retrospiralis, and C. sivadasanii but also C. ciliata and others. C. pondeteriifolia and C. moehlmannii come from Sumatra and C. cordata is native to Borneo.

The Cryptocoryne species are perennial aquatic or marsh plants. Some water goblets always remain under water. Others grow depending on the season and the associated water level, emersed or submersed.

To better understand cryptocoryne culture, let’s take a closer look at the structure of a cryptocoryne plant.
The plants consist of a branched rootstock and leave arranged in rosettes. After some time, large stocks develop as a result of the formation of runners on the vegetation buds of the rhizome. An interesting property of Cryptocoryne is the formation of different types of roots. On many plants, we can find two different types of roots. For one, there are thick, white, fleshy roots. They serve to anchor the plant in the ground and help it cling to a suitable substrate. On the other hand, we find fine, short roots that absorb nutrients. Some species also form hair-thin roots that grow upwards in swampy, oxygen-poor soil and probably have a function similar to aerial roots.

The leaves of water calyx consist of a petiole and a blade. The latter is species-specific and can range from lanceolate to ovate to narrowly linear in shape.

All cryptocorynes belong to the Araceae (araceae) family. They, therefore, form the inflorescences typical of this family, which consist of differently colored bracts (spatha) and a cauldron. In the cauldron is the cob with female and male flowers. The shape, the color, and above all the development of different outgrowths on the edge of the spathe are important criteria in determining the species.

Cryptocoryne (water chalices) in aquaristics

The Cryptocoryne or the water chalice has been among the most popular aquarium plants for many decades.

The reason for this is simple. Most of their representatives are easy to care for and they tirelessly reproduce. Since the species differ significantly in leaf shape, leaf size, and leaf color, we can find a suitable Cryptocoryne species or variety for every aquarium size and every type of planting. The differences are big. They range from the very small, almost turf-forming species C. parva to the large species with long leaves, e.g. B. C. crispatula var. balansae. However, most Cryptocoryne species belong to small and medium-sized aquarium plants. In the aquarium, they are used in the foreground or middle ground.

The shape of the cryptocoryne leaves shows itself in a wide spectrum. There are species with narrow, linear or ribbon-shaped leaves. These include, for example, Cryptocoryne albida, C. costata, C. crispatula var. balansae and C. retrospiralis.
Other species have broader, lanceolate or elliptical leaves such as Cryptocoryne affinis, C. ciliata, C. cordata, .C. legroi, C. moehlmannii, C. pondeteriifolia, C. xpurpurea, C. walkeri and C. wendtii.

The leaf color of various water cups is also interesting. The palette ranges from species with green leaves such as C. moehlmannii, C. albida costata or C. nevillii to brownish tones (C. beckettii, C. purpurea) and reddish-brown leaves (C. cordata, C. wendtii ‘Tropica’, C. wendtii ‘Brown’, C. wendtii ‘Mi Oya’).

Varieties with fancy colors include Cryptocoryne ‘Flamingo’ and C. legroi (a triploid form of C. walkeri). Many cryptos show a two-color hand. While the top is often dark green in color, the undersides are a more or less pronounced burgundy.

You should know that light intensity and fertilization can also have a major impact on leaf color and plant height. Although the members of the genus get by with little light, the leaves of some species become darker, redder, and larger under intensive lighting. The growth appears much more compact.

Cryptocoryne (water cup): the most commonly cultivated species

• C. affinis grows up to 40 cm high. Plants with different leaf shapes are found in culture.
• C. albida (whitish water calyx) grows up to 30 cm high and has green leaves.
• C. beckettii (Beckett’s water goblet) grows to 25 cm in height. The leaves can be dark green to brown and sometimes show an interesting marbling. It is one of the most easy-care water goblets.
• C. ciliata (ciliated water cup) is one of the largest water cups, has green leaves, and can grow up to 50 cm high. It is relatively salt tolerant and can also thrive in brackish water aquariums.
• C. cordata (heart-leaved water cup) is also large crypto. The submerged leaves can grow up to 60 cm long and vary greatly in color: from green to brown, sometimes marbled. Plants grow well but develop quite long petioles as they age.
• C. costata is closely related to C. albida, grows up to 30 cm high, and differs from the latter in its beautiful brown-red leaves.
• C. crispatula (Grass-leaved Waterchalice) can form narrow leaves up to 70 cm long. Often wrongly offered as Cryptocoryne balansae.
• C. crispatula var. balansae also has long leaves. However, they are significantly wider than in the nominate form and very bullous. There is also a brownish form on the market, which, in my experience, turns green under aquarium conditions.
• C. legroi is a form of C. walkeri and has beautiful brown-red leaves with a metallic sheen. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful species.
• C. moehlmannii (Möhlmann’s water goblet) grows up to 30 cm high and has large, green leaves. This Cryptocoryne is very similar to C. pontederifolia and just as easy to care for and undemanding. She grows very slowly.
• C. parva (small water chalice) is the smallest water chalice species in aquarium culture and only grows to a height of 10 cm. It has narrow, green leaves, is a slow grower but is otherwise not very demanding, and makes nice, lawn-like stands in the foreground.
• C. petchii is a triploid form of C. beckettii, a very undemanding plant with greenish leaves.
• C. pondeteriifolia (Pontederia-leaved water-chalice) grows up to 40 cm high and has mostly green leaves that also turn brownish under strong lighting. This is also an easy-care species.
• C. xpupurea (Purple Waterchalice) is a natural hybrid of C. griffithii and C. cordata var. cordata and grows to a height of 20–25 cm. It has dark green leaves that have purple marbling. The plants look very attractive and thrive without any problems.
• C. retrospiralis (twisted water calyx) has very narrow, light green leaves up to 40 cm long and resembles a Vallisneria in appearance. In contrast to this, the Cryptocoryne retrospiralis does not spread throughout the entire basin but forms clump-like stocks.
  Underwater, C. spiralis (spiral water calyx) has narrow green leaves up to 70 cm long, which are often attractively wavy at the edges. The commercially available form of Dennerle grows excellently in the aquarium. C. spiralis is not affected by cryptocoryne blight.
• C. undulata (Corrugated Waterchalice) is a medium-sized species with dark green to green-brown leaves. The species is one of the unproblematic, fast-growing cryptocorynes with a high reproduction rate.
• C. usteriana (Usteris Wasserkelch) is one of the fast-growing cryptocorynes, grows up to 70 cm high and its leaves are wavy and bullous under water. The leaves are green on top while the underside is a beautiful reddish brown.
• C. walkeri (Walker’s water cup) occurs in different growth forms. The leaves grow stiffly upright and reach a height of 25 cm. In the commercially available form, they are mostly reddish brown.
• C. wendtii (Wendt’s water chalice) is the most commonly cultivated water chalice and has the best growth characteristics. It has many decorative forms such as C. wendtii ‘Green’ with green leaves or C. wendtii ‘Braun’,
• C. wendtii ‘Tropica’, C. wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ — all three with darker, reddish-brown leaves.
• C. x willisii (Willis’ water cup) is a natural hybrid of C. parva and C. walkeri. It is a medium-sized, green-leaved water calyx that grows to a maximum of 20 cm in height. It is extremely easy to care for and quickly forms large groups.

Propagation of Cryptocoryne

Water chalice propagation is relatively easy. In aquarium culture, cryptocorynes are mainly propagated by division. Since water chalices are spread by stolons, adult groups can be divided or only individual rhizomes are taken.

Recently, another vegetative method of propagation has also gained importance, namely propagation in vitro, which takes place in the laboratory under sterile conditions. The biggest advantage of plants propagated in this way is sterile rearing. The plants are protected from algae spores, snail spawns, viruses, and other pathogens during cultivation. In addition, one can be sure that these plants never came into contact with fish. This rules out the transmission of white spot disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) and various parasitic worms. Planted in the aquarium, the in vitro specimens form healthy stocks that grow quickly.

Generative propagation from seeds is also possible but plays practically no role in aquaristics since the plants have to be kept emersed for this.

The trouble with the Water Chalice: Cryptocoryne Blight

One of the very few problems encountered when cultivating cryptocoryne is the propensity of some species to what is known as cryptocoryne rot. Susceptibility to cryptocoryne rot varies greatly from species to species. It manifests itself in the leaves becoming glassy, rotting, and completely dissolving in a short time. Many aquarists used to think it was some kind of disease. Today, experts assume that this is how plants respond to sudden, more severe environmental changes. The rootstock is not affected and soon new, healthy leaves will grow from the rhizomes. The water chalice fully recovers.

Do you have any questions about the aquatic plant genus Cryptocoryne (water calyx) or other suggestions on the subject? We welcome comments!

The aquatic plant genus Vallisneria, also called Vallisnerie or water screw, has been one of the most popular and well-known aquarium plants for years. Various shapely representatives of this species can be found in our tanks. In this plant portrait, we will explain exactly what these are, how they differ, and what demands they have on the environment in the aquarium.

Differentiation of the individual species: Vallisneria in the aquarium

Which Vallisnerie do I have in front of me?

Even experts cannot always answer this question at first glance. The taxonomy of the aquatic plant genus Vallisneria has not yet been definitively studied, although great progress has been made in recent years. The Vallisneria belongs to a very variable genus. Since the plants inhabit different habitats and grow in different climatic regions, many forms have developed. In addition, the plants in cultivation have long trade routes behind them. Often it is even difficult to determine the country of origin.

The most reliable way to determine which species you belong to is by looking at the characteristics of the flowers. It must be noted that Vallisneria is dioecious: there are male and female plants. In aquarium culture, the flowers are formed relatively rarely. Therefore, the plants in the aquarium often cannot be clearly assigned to individual Vallisneria species. Currently, 17 Vallisneria species are distinguished. Plants kept in aquarium culture are believed to belong to one of the following species:

• Vallisneria Asiatica
• Vallisneria americana
• Vallisneria australis
• Vallisneria caulescens
• Vallisneria nana
• Vallisneria spiralis

We would like to introduce you to some of the most common commercially available species and varieties from the Vallisneria genus with their respective properties.

• Vallisneria Asiatica
• Vallisneria australis “gigantea”
• Vallisneria nana
• Vallisneria spiralis
• Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tiger’
• Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’
• Vallisneria natans
• Vallisneria asiatica

We do not cultivate the normal form of Vallisneria Asiatica. The form that is very often found in aquariums and in specialist shops is the plant with spirally twisted, very decorative leaves. This is thought to be Vallisneria Asiatica var. biogenesis, a form of Vallisneria spiralis found in Lake Biwa, Japan. The leaves are light green, twisted, very narrow, and from three to ten centimeters wide. The leaves are clearly toothed down and they are five to 50 centimeters long. Vallisneria Asiatica grows better at slightly higher temperatures of 22 to 28 degrees Celsius. Since it naturally grows in shallow water in sunny places, this Vallisnaria responds positively to good lighting in aquarium culture as well. It requires more nutrients than Vallisneria spiralis.

Vallisneria gigantea

Many studies have led to the conclusion that the cultivated specimens of Vallisneria gigantea belong to the species Vallisneria australis. They are fast-growing plants that are easy to care for. The leaves of this Vallisneria are ten to thirty millimeters wide and can grow up to three meters long in nature. In the aquarium, they usually remain 50 to 150 centimeters long. In the case of the Vallisneria gigantea, too, the plants sold commercially under the name differ from one another.

Some plants are only serrated at the tip of the leaf, others have slightly narrower leaves that are serrated in the upper part of the leaf, but the teeth on the leaf margin are significantly coarser than in the other Vallisneria species. Due to their size and rapid growth, they need a nutritious substrate or a correspondingly large amount of fertilizer. Therefore one should cut or trim the older leaves from time to time because they have a tendency to flood to the water surface. This takes away the light from the other plants.

The Vallisneria gigantea grows better at slightly higher temperatures, optimally at 22 to 35 degrees Celsius. It does not make great demands on the light intensity and is satisfied with low to medium light intensity. Good light intensity should be ensured for forms with marked or reddish leaves. Otherwise, the color or marbling of the Vallisneria loses intensity and can even disappear completely. The leaves are very tough and therefore also suitable for aquariums with herbivorous fish.

Vallisneria nana

The dwarf Vallisneria Vallisneria nana comes from Australia. The name is a bit misleading as Vallisneria nana is not the smallest Vallisneria species. In any case, the leaves of this Vallisneria are very narrow, less than a centimeter wide, and dark green. The tip of the leaf is pointed, and there are fine teeth on the upper edge of the leaf that are almost invisible to the naked eye and that stand out particularly clearly at the tip of the leaf. Like all Vallisnerien it forms short offshoots.

In the beginning, in the growth phase, the narrow leaves are often very short and stiff, sickle-shaped in cross-section, and only up to 15 centimeters long. After some time, longer leaves often form, which can even reach up to 80 cm in length and are somewhat wider and thinner. The plants quickly form dense groups. It grows best at temperatures of 22 to 24 degrees Celsius and is suitable as a midground and background plant in small aquariums. Flowering in the aquarium is very rare.

Vallisneria spiralis

Vallisneria spiralis is the longest known water screw. It has been used as an aquarium plant for so long, mainly because it is native to Europe (but also Africa and probably Southwest Asia as well). The first specimens described came from Italy. The widespread distribution of Vallisneria spiralis has led to the formation of different populations. The differences can relate to the leaf shape – i.e. width, length, and leaf edge (serrated or smooth). The leaves are mostly light to dark green, up to 80 centimeters long and five to 15 mm wide. Demands on the conditions in the aquarium can also vary depending on the origin. So there are plants that need more or less heat.

Vallisneria spiralis quickly forms dense stocks in the aquarium. The plant is very adaptable. It grows best at temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius. They grow more slowly at temperatures below 20 degrees, and temperatures above 30 C are also not optimal. In nature, plants of the species Vallisneria spiralis can be found in nutrient-rich, stagnant, or slowly flowing water. They also grow better in the aquarium with a good supply of nutrients. It is interesting that the commercially available plants called Vallisneria spiralis often have very different leaf shapes. There are forms with broad and narrow leaves, and some are clearly toothed along the entire length of the leaf. On the market, there are also plants with a very smooth leaf edge, almost without perforation, under the name Vallisneria spiralis.

Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tiger’

This species is a color form of Vallisneria spiralis. With strong lighting, many small brown cross-streaks become visible in the leaf blade. This marbling is very dependent on the lighting intensity and can also disappear completely. Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tiger’ is 30 to 50 centimeters long and has leaves that are five to fifteen millimeters wide. It grows a little more slowly and has less of an urge to spread than other Vallisneria.

Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’

Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’ is a form of Vallisneria spiralis that has very short and conspicuously twisted leaves. As with all Vallisneria, the appearance of the leaves is highly dependent on the growing conditions. The leaf color can be light green, but also olive green, the leaf width can reach a length of three to ten millimeters. The plants on the market are finely toothed only in the upper part of the leaves. They have a clearly visible median nerve.

It is arguably the Vallisneria that remains the lowest. Their leaves are usually only 25 centimeters long. It is therefore suitable for the foreground and the middle ground of the aquarium. Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’ is a bit more demanding and needs more warmth and more light than Vallisneria spiralis. Under good cultivation conditions, it has more twisted leaves. The plants form slightly longer stolons than the parent form, therefore the new plants appear a little further away from the mother plant and they form loose clusters.

Vallisneria natans

According to some authors, the Vallisneria natans plants in cultivation may belong to the Vallisneria australis species. Although the leaf shape of V. natans is indeed similar to a small V. australis, I do not share this view. It finally gets confusing as some wholesalers offer the plants under Vallisneria Americana ‘natans’. As long as no conclusive studies are available here, I assume that the good species Vallisneria natans is actually on the market.

V. natans has mid-green, narrow leaves that are serrated on the upper half. The leaves reach a length of 50 to 100 centimeters and allow other, smaller aquarium plants enough light. The plants are very undemanding and their cultivation conditions correspond to those of Vallisneria spiralis. They differ from the latter by a rounded leaf tip. However, some wholesalers offer all smooth-leaved Vallisneria as V. spiralis. Depending on availability, the customer then gets V. natans one week and V. spiralis the next week with the label “Vallisneria spiralis” in the retail trade.

It shouldn’t matter to most aquarists, especially since both species have the same requirements and hardly differ in growth habits. I personally find it annoying, but I’ve given up on having an unbearable argument with the suppliers every time. If you really want to have the real Vallisneria spiralis, I recommend the Vallisneria spiralis “Tiger” from Tropica. On the other hand, if you are interested in the real Vallisneria natans, I can recommend the bunch of plants from Tropica (here referred to as Vallisneria Americana ‘natans’).

Which Vallisnaria is the best aquatic plant for my aquarium?

As an aquarist, you often ask yourself which of the Vallisneria on the market is the right one for your own tank. In order to answer this, you should first ask yourself the following questions:

How much space do I have?

For a small tank, Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’ or Vallisneria nana would be the right choice. If I need a particularly uncomplicated, undemanding plant, then the Vallisneria spiralis is suitable, although another Vallisneria is easy to cultivate. If you are looking for a plant with an interesting leaf shape, you can access Vallisneria Asiatica or Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tortifolia’, which have very decorative, twisted leaves. As a plant with colored leaves, Vallisneria spiralis ‘Tiger’ is the right choice because it displays beautiful leaf patterns with good lighting.

If you have a very large tank, strong growing plants are an advantage, including Vallisneria gigantea.

In a medium-sized tank, Vallisneria natans or Vallisneria spiralis plants are in the right place, although in larger tanks you can use the smaller Vallisneria in the foreground and middle ground.

Are the environmental parameters correct?

If the nutrient and light supply meet the requirements of the chosen Vallisnerie, nothing stands in the way of the purchase. Now it only depends on your personal taste which type you choose. If you have any further questions, you can get professional help from a specialist dealer.

Do you have any questions about the aquatic plant genus Vallisnerie (water screw) or other suggestions on the subject? We welcome comments!

One loves them, the other hates them: not everyone likes to see snails in the aquarium. While many aquarium owners lovingly care for different species of snails, others are terrified when they discover the unloved guests on their aquarium plants. But everyone agrees on one thing: Excessive multiplication of snails is undesirable – no matter how they got into the tank. Here you can learn more about aquarium snails, why it is not always necessary to control snails in the aquarium, and how to control the snail population.

How do snails get into the aquarium?

Aquatic snails or their spawn often enter the tank with aquarium plants that have been purchased or passed on by other aquarium owners. If you want your aquarium to be completely free of snails, it won’t be easy – because they are almost everywhere. However, it is possible to ban unloved snails from the aquarium as far as possible or to contain their population. In this way, you can benefit from the snails in the aquarium without attracting negative attention or becoming a nuisance.

It is normal for snails or snail spawn to be found on newly purchased aquatic plants if the plants have grown underwater and have been in the nursery for a long time. If there are no water snails on such plants, this can be a sign that aggressive pesticides have been used. The poison that is still in the plants and gets into the water is often fatal not only for aquatic snails but also for other invertebrates such as shrimp or crabs. Snails on newly purchased aquarium plants are therefore no cause for concern – on the contrary, they show that the plants have grown in the nursery in an animal-friendly environment.

Buying aquarium plants without snails?

So-called in-vitro plants are guaranteed to be free from snails. These are aquatic plants that have grown in the laboratory and are grown in a special nutrient solution. Since they haven’t been submerged in a nursery, make sure the plants are slug-free as well as algae and parasite-free. The purchase price of in-vitro plants is often hardly higher than that of conventionally cultivated aquarium plants – a worthwhile purchase for anyone who wants to avoid snails in the aquarium. You can find out more about plants from in vitro culture, including meristem plants, in our guide on the subject.

These snail species are often found on aquarium plants

• Ramshorn snail (Planorbarius corneus)
  It is cared for by many aquarium owners and bred in many color variations. The natural form is brown. The shell of the snail looks like a posthorn and can reach a size of up to four centimeters.
• Bladder Snail (Family Physidae)
  Bladder snails have a pointed shell and grow to be less than an inch. Around 80 species are known worldwide.
• Plate snail (Family Planorbidae)
  This type of snail looks very similar to the ramshorn snail. Her house, however, is flat and tilted sideways. It usually stays very small in the aquarium.

Attention: If you discover a pointed mud snail (Lymnaea stagnalis) on your aquarium plants, only place them in larger aquariums. It can grow up to seven centimeters.
In the garden pond, on the other hand, pointed mud snails are in very good hands. Pointed mud snails like to eat freshwater polyps, among other things, and are used to combat them.

Snails in the aquarium – this is why they are useful:

Snails, when present in moderation, are very useful in the aquarium. They contribute to the diversity of the fauna and tirelessly devour leftover food and dead plant parts. This will keep the water clean and ensure a pretty and healthy aquarium. Most species also do not eat living plants, as they are said to do. Only in the case of mass propagation and the associated scarcity of food do they lay hands on horticultural greenery.
However, too many water snails can be annoying because they disturb the overall picture. The aquarist then has to intervene to regulate this. Suitable and unsuitable measures are described below. One type of aquarium in which snails should definitely not be missing is rearing tanks for young fish. The water snails used here not only eat the food leftovers before they can spoil, but they also clean the panes of bacterial growth, which can be fatal to many fish larvae.

Let’s note the following:

• Snails eat leftover food
  Snails act as the “health police” in the aquarium by eating leftovers that the fish and other aquarium inhabitants have not eaten. Food leftovers lying on the bottom have a negative effect on the water quality.
• Snails eat dead animals
  If a fish dies, it is not always immediately obvious in a crowded community aquarium. Snails will immediately take care of a dead animal and start eating it.
• Snails eat algae
  With their sharp mouthparts, snails grate the growth of algae from discs and aquarium plants. In this way, they help to keep the aquarium free of algae. Don’t expect miracles here, though. Snails are more of a support for regular aquarium maintenance than the solution to an algae problem. The ramshorn snail Planorbella scalaris is an exception. The animals constantly eat algae and keep my two desk aquariums completely free of algae. However, the floating plants of the genus Limnobium are also part of their diet. On the other hand, Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus, Bucephalandra, Anubias, and Microsorum are not touched.
• Snails eat dead plant matter
  For aquarium owners, it often looks as if snails are attacking the aquarium plants. In fact, they very rarely eat healthy aquatic plants – usually only when they can’t find any other food. However, by tirelessly rasping off dead plant parts and consuming diseased plants, they support healthy plant growth in the aquarium.

Tip: Snails are a good indicator that something is wrong in the aquarium. If the snail population increases significantly or if the snails gather under the water surface, you should definitely look for the causes.
Snails in the aquarium: fight or care?
Snails have many aficionados in aquaristics. Many species of snails are kept in aquariums and are commercially available. These include, for example:

• apple snail
• ramshorn snail
• tower snail
• racing snail
• antler snail
• and much more m.

The apple snail grows very large and is highly valued by enthusiasts. There are different types on the market. While the Pomacea diffusa (formerly Pomacea bridgesii) are completely harmless, other species, such as the paradise snails from the Marisa genus, eat everything that is green.
The slightly larger Pomacea canaliculata, which are also commonly sold as apple snails, do not belong in planted aquariums either. We recommend the website www.applesnail.net for those who want to learn more about the subject. Here you can find all the important information about apple snails and the differences between the individual species are well illustrated with drawings.

Ramshorn snails can be found in different color breeds, such as blue or pink, and are among the most popular aquarium snails. Tower snails live in the ground and help to clean and aerate it – similar to earthworms in the ground. Other snail species, such as the snail, are advertised as algae eaters. However, snails are not a sufficient solution to combat an algae plague. Here you should better go to cause research and check the water parameters, lighting, and other factors. You can find tips on how to do this in our article on combating algae in the aquarium.

Tips against snails: you should keep your hands off them

Aquarium snails are animals that are fun to watch and perform many important tasks as they tirelessly roam the tank. They’re easy to take a liking to—unless they show up en masse. This can happen with snails from the trade as well as with imported snails. Then the fascination is quickly over.

Tips on how to remove snails from the aquarium are widely distributed. However, many of them are not only useless but also harm the aquarium plants.

Soak aquarium plants in mineral water

It is often said that mineral water is a good way to remove snails and planarians from aquarium plants. However, watering newly purchased aquarium plants in mineral water is not an effective remedy against snails – even less against planarians. The plants, on the other hand, can be damaged by the treatment.

Bathing in potassium permanganate solution

Many aquarists disinfect newly purchased aquarium plants in a solution containing potassium permanganate. It is normally used to disinfect the tank and accessories, for example after an infection in the aquarium. But aquatic plants can also be treated with a potassium permanganate solution. However, the snail spawn, which can be found on the plants, usually survives this procedure completely unscathed.

Fight aquatic snails chemically

Means are commercially available to chemically combat snails in the aquarium. These agents not only kill snails, but also other invertebrates. The use of chemical agents in the aquarium must always be considered. There are usually more environmentally friendly and cheaper alternatives that do not harm the aquarium plants and inhabitants.

Use fish that eat snails

It is often advised to use snail-eating fish, such as net loaches or puffer fish. However, before you buy one, be sure to ask yourself: Are you really interested in caring for this species? Are you ready to buy or breed snails when the snail plague is over? Do the fish match the size of the tank and the other stock? Loaches, for example, need a lot of space in the aquarium, which not everyone can offer.

Use predatory snails

Predatory snails are also often recommended as a solution to the snail plague. However, here too it is important to consider: What happens to the predatory snails once the snails have been destroyed? Are the predatory snails themselves welcome aquarium inhabitants? Here, too, it often comes down to one problem being replaced by another.

So you can regulate the population of snails in the aquarium

Snails are useful and welcome aquarium inhabitants. Only when they spread too much are they usually perceived as a nuisance. However, limiting the snail population is not that difficult. Some simple tips:

1. Collect snails by hand
2. Lay out bait or snail traps
3. Feed very sparingly

The easiest way is to regularly collect the small snails by hand, for example during daily feeding. They can also be crushed on the glass if you keep animals in the tank that will eat them.

An effective snail bait in the aquarium is a slice of cucumber or zucchini placed on the bottom. Many snails quickly find their way here and can be easily taken out and removed.

Snail traps are also commercially available. They are constructed in such a way that the snails can get in but not out again. They are attracted to some food. However, the small plate-shaped traps on which the snails collect are better. No fish or shrimp can get caught here, which often die in small snail traps due to the lack of oxygen caused by the bait.
Tower snails also often gather on the aquarium panes during the night. This is a sign that something is wrong in the aquarium environment. Somewhere decay processes consume a lot of oxygen from the water. A dirty filter or a thick layer of sludge in the substrate is usually the cause. However, this is an advantage when fighting snails. The tower snails, which cannot be reached during the day, can simply be scraped off the panes with a net when the aquarium light is switched off. However, you should still quickly get to the bottom of the cause of the lack of oxygen.

Tip: It is best to place a snail trap in the aquarium overnight. When the lights are off, snails are most active. In the morning they remove the trap and quickly kill the animals by pouring boiling water over them.

Keeping snails in check in the aquarium: very simple

Basically, snails only become a problem and multiply uncontrollably if there is too much waste in the aquarium:

1. dead plant material
2. undiscovered animal carcasses
3. Leftover food in the aquarium

Feeding the fish too much is almost always a reason for a plague of snails in the aquarium. Feed tablets, for example, consist of the finest feed particles, which are pressed into tablet form using high pressure. The food swells in the water and a not inconsiderable part disappears into the surrounding substrate. Here it cannot be reached by the fish and leads to an invasion-like proliferation of tower snails. So always make sure to only feed as much as will be eaten in a few minutes. Separate feeding is only necessary for very large snail species (such as the apple snail). Even if the fish are fed sparingly, smaller snail species will find enough to eat in a normal setup aquarium.

What are your experiences with snails in the aquarium? We welcome comments!

When it comes to floating plants in the aquarium or garden pond, most people immediately think of the well-known duckweed. However, anyone who deals a little more intensively with the topic of aquarium plants will quickly discover many other attractive species. In this article, we will introduce you to some of them and tell you why you should not do without them.

Shade areas in the aquarium with floating plants

It is not always easy to satisfy the different needs of different aquarium plants. Some need a lot of light, others, especially slow-growing plants, start to grow algae if the light is too strong. Floating aquatic plants are the ideal solution for shading individual areas in the aquarium. In this way, you ensure an interesting play of light, prevent the growth of algae and offer shy fish an opportunity to retreat to a darker region in the aquarium.

Tip: A fishing line or thin twine can be used to demarcate an area on the water surface. In this way, the plants do not drift freely through the tank. This trick is more suitable for larger floating plants such as mussel flowers.
Prevent algae growth with aquarium plants
Algae quickly spread to slow-growing plants, decorative objects, and even the substrate if the lighting in the aquarium is too strong. Floating plants provide a simple and efficient remedy – and if you wish, only in certain areas of the pool.

But this is not the only reason why they are an important aid in the fight against algae in the aquarium: Fast-growing floating aquatic plants are particularly valuable as nutrient consumers. Duckweed or fairy ferns, for example, grow so rapidly with a good supply of nutrients that the stock has to be thinned out regularly. They convert excess nutrients into plant matter. Simply remove the plants from the aquarium regularly and ensure balanced water values.

Tip: If you find that the floating plants in your aquarium are only growing slowly, or the stock is even declining, you should check the water parameters and fertilize if necessary. They are a good indicator of whether there are enough nutrients in the water.

Protection for aquarium inhabitants

Floating aquatic plants cover the water surface in the aquarium and make the fish feel comfortable. Even shy specimens come out much more often when protected by a blanket of floating plants. In nature, many dangers lurk “from above”. They often feel safer in a densely planted tank – and it shows.

Young fish use the dense planting as a hiding place. The roots of floating aquarium plants become a safe haven. So you can look forward to significantly more offspring in your fish and other aquarium inhabitants.

Floating plants in the aquarium create an interesting look

The human observer also enjoys an aquarium with a versatile look. Floating plants offer many opportunities to structure the aquarium and make it interesting. Some species develop pretty, bushy roots that hang down into the water, making for an intriguing sight. In many species, these are even reddish in color.

Open aquariums are particularly attractive with floating plants. A plant cover is a real eye-catcher and ensures a varied overall picture – especially if it is a specimen that flowers every now and then.

These are just a few of the most popular floating plants for the aquarium and pond. You can get more species and information about caring for them from your specialist dealer for aquarium plants.
What do you think is the most beautiful floating plant in the aquarium? We welcome comments!

If you want to set up a new aquarium for shrimp, you should read here. With a little know-how, it is very easy to offer the popular invertebrates an optimal habitat in the aquarium. In this small guide, we summarize what is important when choosing plants, furnishings, and the like.

The optimal substrate for shrimp in the aquarium

The substrate in the shrimp tank should ideally consist of medium-grain gravel for most shrimp species. The animals are constantly looking for food on the ground. In doing so, they diligently turn grain by grain. If the gravel is coarse, the food falls down through the cracks between the stones and is no longer accessible to the shrimp.

The dark substrate is the right choice for many colorful shrimp species. In nature, the animals camouflage themselves on a dark background by expanding the pigment cells in their armor and thus appearing darker. Enter light ground, and pull the color cells together again. The colors of the shrimp shine much more brightly on a dark substrate in the aquarium.

Tip: Don’t be too meticulous about cleaning shrimp in the aquarium. There may well be a small corner with Mulm. The shrimp find plenty of food there. But keep an eye on the water values ​​and don’t be careless with the care of the aquarium.

Roots for the shrimp aquarium

Roots are a popular piece of furniture in the shrimp aquarium. They are ideal for structuring the tank and providing the shrimp with natural habitat. However, keep in mind that the water values ​​can change as a result of the roots in the aquarium. Many shrimp lovers swear by the positive effects of the tannins that the roots release into the water. Before purchasing, find out which roots are suitable for the shrimp aquarium and, if in doubt, seek advice from your specialist retailer.

You should also set up an aquarium for rooted shrimp because the animals love to be there. Because the wood slowly decomposes in water, it provides excellent grazing ground. The wood particles that the shrimp ingest while eating are considered healthy supplementary food. Last but not least, roots offer the possibility of tying up epiphytic plants or mosses to make the shrimp tank particularly varied.

Attention: Only aquarium roots that have not been chemically treated belong in the shrimp aquarium. During storage, some roots are treated with pesticides to protect them, which are lethal for shrimp. You can obtain suitable roots from your trusted specialist retailer.

Stones in the shrimp aquarium

Shrimp love to hide in burrows. Offer you plenty of them. Wonderful hiding places can be built from stones fixed with aquarium silicone. Slate stairs also look great in the shrimp tank. When selecting the stones, also consider the possible effects on the water parameters. The following applies to shrimp in the aquarium: do not use calcareous stones. They harden the water and shrimp prefer a low water hardness.

Tip: To test whether a stone contains limescale, drop some vinegar essence on it. If foam forms, lime is present in the rock.

Set up a shrimp aquarium: choose suitable plants

Lush planting in the shrimp aquarium is a must. It forms a hiding place and source of food in one. A fine growth of microorganisms, algae, and other delicacies for the invertebrates forms on the plants.

Fine-leaved plants belong in every shrimp tank. Because a lot of suspended matter gets caught in the fine leaves, shrimp-like look for food here. Youngsters in particular like to stay in the fine thicket. Ground cover should also be planned for in the shrimp aquarium when setting it up. They provide shelter and an excellent source of food from the mulm that forms beneath them. Mosses should not be missing in any shrimp aquarium: as greenery for the mat filter, attached to roots or stones, or as a cushion on the substrate, they will quickly become your protégés’ favorite place.

Tip: When keeping shrimp in the aquarium, do not be too sparing with moss. Aquarium moss will double in volume within three to four weeks. If you only have a chestnut-sized amount of moss at the beginning, it will take you quite a while until a nice cushion has formed. If you start with a handful of moss, you can easily green up an entire rear wall of the pool in a short time. Ask your aquarium plant dealer about offers for larger quantities of moss for the shrimp aquarium, such as this Java moss in a portion can.

Setting up a shrimp aquarium: Which filter is the right one?

When choosing the filter for the shrimp aquarium, you should consider the following criteria:

1. The filter performance and flow must match the needs of the animals.
2. The filter must be closed or secured so that shrimp cannot enter.

Most shrimp species do not make any special demands on the current in the aquarium. A filter like the one found in a normal community tank will do just fine. An exception is the fan shrimp, which take their food from the running water. The other dwarf shrimp species feel comfortable with medium to low currents.

When keeping shrimp in the aquarium, the filter should be chosen very carefully in terms of safety for shrimp: they are very resourceful when looking for food, and the filter is an enticing source of food. In many filter models, the offspring of shrimp in particular easily fit through the openings in the suction area – with fatal consequences. Depending on the design, the shrimp can also reach the outlet. With astonishing exertion, they overcome the flow and get inside the filter. Shrimp-proof your filter with a fine mesh or lady’s stocking.

Tip: You often hear that the cables from the filter have to be secured against climbing shrimp so that they do not escape from the tank. However, shrimp only climb out of the water if it becomes difficult for them to survive there – if the water parameters are too bad or the temperature gets too high in summer, for example. If the shrimp in the aquarium attempt to escape, this is an alarm signal that something is very wrong in the aquarium.

Which filter for the shrimp aquarium? All criteria at a glance

If you are setting up an aquarium for shrimp and want to buy a new filter, it is best to use a sponge filter or a hamburger mat filter. The latter is not only harmless for the shrimp but also offers an excellent feeding place with its large surface.

Keeping shrimp in the aquarium

Once the aquarium has been prepared, the residents can move in. Versatile and sociable, these invertebrates have become extremely popular with aquarists, and some species are easy to keep. But shrimp are not only beautiful to look at in the aquarium, but they also fulfill a practical function: they help to care for the tank. They love fresh algae and simply pick them up out of the water with their hairy fans on their claws. Keeping shrimp in the aquarium is ideal, at least from a visual point of view.

In addition, shrimp are not only easy to keep and care for in the aquarium specially designed for them, they also prove themselves in the community with other residents. When choosing them, however, care should be taken to ensure that they correspond to the temperament of the shrimp: They should therefore neither be very large nor too hectic. The invertebrates also feel particularly comfortable when they have several conspecifics around them, so at least five to six animals should be kept together.

Frequently asked questions about aquarium plants for shrimp

Do shrimp eat aquarium plants?

Some shrimp keepers have found that the shrimp in the aquarium damage fine-feathered plants or mosses by tirelessly wiping with their brush hands. Amano shrimp in particular can be a bit rough when dealing with aquarium plants. Attacked or diseased parts are sometimes even eaten. Therefore, plant generously in the tank, do not put too many shrimp in, and try out the habits of your shrimp population. Normally, shrimps in the aquarium do not pose a threat to the plant population. However, if hundreds of “Amanos” pounce on a handful of java moss, then after two days only the leafless branches will remain.

Shrimp and Anubias: Can it be dangerous?

You hear again and again that Anubias are harmful to shrimp in the aquarium. However, many shrimp keepers have no problem cultivating plants of the genus Anubia (trade name: dwarf spear leaf) in the shrimp tank. It is now believed that this is not a problem as long as the plant does not sustain any major injuries. This is the case, for example, when she is circumcised.

Shrimp-safe plants for the aquarium

Are you one of those shrimp keepers who worry about adding new commercially available aquarium plants to your tank? You are not alone: ​​you hear again and again that shrimp die after buying aquarium plants. This phenomenon is caused by pesticide residues that may be temporarily present on certain Asian trade crops. Only those who know what to look out for can successfully avoid this danger when buying aquarium plants for the shrimp tank.

The issue is particularly acute when inserting aquarium plants into a running tank. After setting up a new shrimp aquarium, on the other hand, it normally “runs in” for several weeks without stocking. Do this, making the appropriate partial water changes, should the plants have excreted any debris.

Do you have any questions or suggestions on the subject of “Setting up a shrimp aquarium”? We appreciate your comments!