Plant tissue culture or in vitro culture (also called micropropagation) is a method of plant propagation under “in vitro” conditions developed in the 1960s. In vitro is borrowed from Latin and means something like in the glass. A distinction is made between meristem cultures and organ cultures.

In meristem cultures, the cells from the plant’s meristem are used. A meristem is a so-called formation tissue, which consists of undifferentiated cells. There are certain parallels to animal stem cells, which will not be explained in detail here.

Meristems are located on the shoot tips (shoot apical meristems), side shoots (subcutal meristems), and root tips (root apical meristems). In contrast to the permanent tissue (parenchyma), the meristem consists of cells that are still capable of mitotic division. Here there is a unique ability of plant cells, the so-called totipotency. This means that a complete organism can be formed from individual cells of the meristem tissue. In addition to the meristem cultures, there are also so-called organ cultures. Here, not only individual cells are removed from mother plants, but complete, small plant parts z. B. side shoots, shoot tips, single nodes, seeds, or leaves used as starting material.

Benefits of Plant Tissue Culture

First and foremost, plant tissue culture guarantees the cultivation of healthy, virus-free young plants because the meristems, as the youngest plant tissue, are not yet infected by viruses. This is important in the so-called phytosanitation of plant varieties that have lost their vitality due to a virus attack and thus enables them to be kept virus-free. The plants propagated in these processes are genetically identical (true to the variety) to the mother plant and in this way, many new plants can be bred from only a small amount of starting material. This is particularly important when preserving rare or old plant varieties that are difficult to propagate using conventional methods.

Plant tissue culture is therefore mainly used to build up large stocks of economically important useful and ornamental plants. Since the plants are grown under sterile conditions, they are largely free of pathogens and pests and can be exported without any problems.

So how does this in vitro culture take place?

First, so-called primary explants are removed from selected mother plants. These are tiny pieces of tissue from which complete plants are later developed.

The second step is disinfection. Any externally adhering germs are killed. The explants are then placed on an appropriate nutrient medium in a sterile environment.
The stocks are checked regularly and sorted out if necessary.
The plants resulting from these primary explants are further placed on a solid nutrient medium and the plants continue to develop there.

Composition of the cultural medium

Although the nutrient medium can be specially tailored to the plant species, there are basic common components for all nutrient media that are essential for plant growth. These components include macro and micronutrients, vitamins, hormones, etc.

Macronutrients include nitrogen (N), phosphorus ℗, potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca), and sulfur (S).
Micronutrients include Manganese (Mn), Boron (B), Zinc (Zn), Molybdenum (Mo), Copper (Cu), Cobalt (Co), Iodine (I), and Iron (Fe).
In addition, the following vitamins are added: nicotinic acid, pyridoxine, thiamine, biotin, folic acid, and glycine.

Phytohormones are also an important part of the nutrient medium. With the appropriate composition, the growth processes in the tissue cultures can be controlled and specifically promoted, for example, root formation. The concentration and the relationship between the hormones are also important. The most important phytohormones include auxins (root hormones), which stimulate root formation, and cytokinins (growth hormones), which promote branching. The composition of all these substances can be used to steer organogenesis in the desired direction. Giberelin and abscisic acid are also sometimes used because they have a positive influence on the growth of some plant species. The nutrient medium also consists of sugar, water, and agar, which is used as a gelling agent.

In vitro plants in aquaristics

Plants from tissue culture are becoming increasingly popular among aquarists and especially plant dealers. The range of offered meristem boxes with aquarium plants is getting wider, which is not without reason.

In vitro plants have several advantages compared to normally propagated, potted plants.

• While potted or bundled goods may be infested with snails, in vitro plants are guaranteed snail-free.
• No parasites, algae, or germs are transmitted either. The use of such sterile plants is particularly recommended for aquariums with sensitive invertebrates.
• Another advantage is that meristem plants do not contain any residues of pesticides or algaecides, which would be very harmful to shrimp or crabs.
• Although the meristem plant pots are smaller than the standard pots, they contain many more individual plants.
• These grow quickly because the roots are healthy and fully developed in the nutrient medium.
• Compared to the emersed plants, in vitro plants do not lose their leaves after being planted underwater.
• Another advantage (especially for us plant traders;-)) is that these plants are easy to transport and do not have to be planted immediately upon receipt. With sufficient light, at room temperature, and in an unopened cup, the quality is retained for several weeks.
• Almost all potted plants grow in Rockwool. When transplanting, it is sometimes unavoidable to damage or trim the roots. These problems do not exist with in vitro plants. With careful handling, root damage can be largely avoided.

In order to place in vitro plants in the aquarium, the following steps should be followed:

• Remove the plants from the cup and carefully wash out the nutrient substrate under running water. The easiest way to do this is to place the plants in a container of aquarium water for a period of time, around 1 hour, and then gently wash off the softened nutrient jelly.
• The clean plants can now be divided into 6-8 parts with scissors. Depending on the species, you can also carefully divide the plants into several portions with your fingers.
• Carefully plant the individual sections in the aquarium soil. Long tweezers should be used for this and the plants should not be planted too densely in accordance with their final size in the substrate.

Everyone who owns an aquarium knows them: sooner or later algae can be found in every tank. While some species of algae, such as green algae, are tolerated or even welcome guests, others drive aquarists to despair – especially if they persist, overgrow panes and decorative objects, or even affect plant growth. With a little background knowledge, however, it is not that difficult to identify and eliminate the causes of increased algae growth. In this article, we would like to give you some important tips on combating and preventing algae.

The following types of algae can occur in the aquarium:

• Green algae (thread algae, spot algae, floating algae, hair algae, …)
• Red algae (brush algae, beard algae)
• Brown algae (diatoms)
• blue-green algae

What are algae and how are they formed?

Most algae, as we know them from our aquariums, belong to the aquatic plants, but not to the higher ones, but to the so-called lower ones. (An exception is the slime algae, which are cyanobacteria.) Algae have a lot in common with aquarium plants: they share a habitat and carry out photosynthesis, i.e. converting nutrients into plant matter with the help of sunlight. In order to grow, they need exactly the same things as aquatic plants, namely nutrients and light.

However, algae are less demanding and much more adaptable than higher plants. Therefore, they still feel comfortable there, where aquarium plants already have difficulties, reduce their growth or even die. And this is exactly the reason why algae can spread rapidly when an imbalance has set in the aquarium and make it difficult for the aquarium plants to keep the upper hand or regain it. If you create the conditions for good plant growth in your aquarium, algae hardly stand a chance in the long run.

In short: you will never have a completely algae-free aquarium. The good news is that this is not necessary or desirable. It is not possible to protect an aquarium from algae being “introduced”. Algae spores can always be found somewhere – in the transport of water from purchased fish, on plants or decorative material, and even in the air.

This is perfectly normal and usually doesn’t have much of an impact. Because algae only gain a foothold where plant growth is disturbed. And some types of algae, such as the popular moss balls, are even cultivated and lovingly cared for by some aquarium owners. Just like aquatic plants, algae produce oxygen, have a positive influence on the water chemistry, and offer the aquarium inhabitants a natural habitat.

Avoid algae, improve plant growth: a checklist

Would you like a visually appealing aquarium without disturbing algae growth? Or have you discovered algae that are starting to multiply in your tank? Then you should use our checklist to check the following points.

• planting of the aquarium
• lighting conditions and lighting
• water quality and nutrient supply
• stocking and feeding

Increased formation of algae is always a sign that there is an imbalance in the aquarium or that certain conditions are not ideal. The above points are the main ones to pay attention to. We will explain this to you in more detail below.

Planting and health of aquarium plants

Basically, lush, healthy plant growth is the best weapon against unwanted algae. Aquatic plants absorb nitrate and phosphate from the water and are essential for healthy water chemistry. At the same time, they compete with algae for food, so that they do not multiply uncontrollably in a tank with good water quality, appropriate lighting, and nutrient supply for the plants.

Therefore, when purchasing aquarium plants, you should always make sure that you choose varieties that can grow optimally under the given circumstances. If you occasionally have to deal with some unwanted algae in your aquarium, one of the simplest solutions is to use fast-growing aquarium plants. Bunch plants or stem plants, in particular, have proven themselves here, since these are mostly species that adapt easily, grow quickly and represent strong competition for the algae.

Lighting conditions and lighting

Lighting also plays an important role in the development of algae. Basically, the aquarium should be set up in such a way that no daylight falls on it. The light that shines on the aquarium from the window is sufficient to stimulate algae growth, but cannot be used by the plants. Therefore, always make sure to place the aquarium in a place where it does not receive direct natural light. You should select the lighting for your aquarium in such a way that the light intensity is sufficient to provide light-hungry plants in all areas of the tank with sufficient water.

It is also important to replace fluorescent tubes regularly, as the luminosity decreases over time and the light spectrum changes. A rule of thumb is that aquatic plants thrive in long-wave red light, while algae prefer blue and UV light. Most aquarium owners adjust the lighting time of their tanks to roughly the length of a tropical day since this corresponds to the natural habitat of most plants and animals that are kept in aquariums. In connection with the topic of algae, it is important not to illuminate the pool for too long; a time of ten hours is the upper limit. With some types of algae, it can also help to reduce the lighting duration for a certain time or even to start a so-called “dark cure”.

Water quality and nutrient supply

The water quality, especially the nutrient content, is of great importance when it comes to the growth of algae as well as aquarium plants. If algae suddenly multiply rapidly, this is usually a sign of an imbalance in the aquarium. You should look for possible causes. Relevant water values ​​can be easily determined with the help of water tests, which you can purchase in specialist shops, mostly as droplet tests. However, many aquarium dealers also offer a determination of the most important water values, often free of charge, sometimes for a small fee.

While very undemanding plants can already feed themselves well on the substances that fish or bacteria produce in the tank, many aquarium plants need fertilizer, which they absorb from the substrate via the roots or from the water via the leaves. In addition to CO2, the most important nutrients for plants include nitrogen (N), phosphorus, iron (Fe), and manganese (Mn). However, demanding aquatic plants also need micronutrients such as copper, zinc, molybdenum, and borate, which are contained in special fertilizers, for healthy growth.

Stocking and feeding

If your aquarium is overloaded with fish, this not only has a negative effect on their well-being but also on that of the plants. The accumulation of substances that cannot be completely broken down by aquatic plants and bacteria creates a rich supply of nutrients for the algae and creates a difficult environment for healthy plant growth.

ATTENTION: Feed the animals that you keep in your aquarium only enough so that no residues remain in the water. The food should be completely eaten up within a minute and not spread unnecessarily in the water and pollute it.

A very efficient method of keeping algae in the tank to a minimum is to include a few algae eaters in the aquarium when stocking it. Many species of fish, shrimp, or snail-like eat algae and can help keep it at bay. Since these animals only consume the algae and not the aquatic plants, this is an excellent method when it comes to giving the aquatic plants a decisive advantage over their food competitors, algae.

What are your experiences with algae? We look forward to your tips and comments!

Customers often ask us whether our aquarium plants are cultivated submersed (submerged, i.e. underwater) or emersed (emerged, i.e. above water). I can answer the question with a clear “it depends”. ?

What are submerged aquarium plants?

In nature, most of the plants suitable for aquaristics grow above water. So these are usually emersed plants. They thrive in swampy terrain or on the banks of bodies of water. However, these plants are able to develop underwater leaves in the event of permanent flooding and then continue to live submerged. However, they grow more slowly under the water surface and the leaves are more sensitive to mechanical stress. Only the actual aquatic plants are real submerged aquarium plants. They cannot live permanently emerged and are dependent on water as a habitat. These include, for example, the species of the genera Vallisneria, Myriophyllum, Cabomba, and the water lilies. But also the well-known hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) and waterweed (Egeria densa) always grow submerged in nature.

Why are the plants produced emersed and not submerged?

The production of emersed plants is significantly cheaper than rearing them underwater. Like all production companies, nurseries are also subject to enormous cost pressure. Heating and lighting costs have almost doubled in recent years. Many smaller nurseries had to give up or relocated their entire production to Asia.
However, some large and specialized nurseries in Holland, Germany, and Denmark have survived by consistently converting to emersed production processes, modernizing and automating their production. Today they supply high-quality aquarium plants from European production. However, all plants that only grow submerged are also bought here from Asia.

Do submerged plants grow better in aquariums than others?

https://youtu.be/JFOloB48ggU

No, because the corresponding plants are also adapted to changing water levels in nature. It is also a myth that they first lose all their leaves and then create new underwater leaves. Leaves that have grown above water also contribute to photosynthesis in the aquarium. However, if the plant remains under water for a longer period of time, it will in fact gradually develop better-adapted underwater leaves. The existing leaves are subject to the normal aging process and die off over a period of a few weeks to months.

In many genera, however, the submerged leaves differ fundamentally in appearance from those that have grown above water. The best example of this is the round-leaved Rotala. While the emersed leaves are round (Latin name!) and green, elongated, bright red to red-brown leaves grow under water. Of course, this looks strange at first a few weeks after planting. However, aquarists only use the tips of the shoots for propagation, so the plant only consists of submerged stems after the first regeneration at the latest.

A clear distinction between emersed and submerged aquarium plants using the example of Echinodorus xbarthii (Barth’s sword plant)

Another clear example of the different appearance of submersed and emersed specimens is the sword plants. The “air leaves” of sword plants look almost exclusively mottled green or green-brown. Underwater, on the other hand, the plants are transformed into colorful treasures. Bright red, purple, or flaming red leaves gradually emerge from the rosette. After a few weeks, the plant is no longer recognizable.

But not only the color of the leaves changes. While emersed echinoderms often have elliptical, ovate, or lanceolate leaf shapes, the leaves of submerged specimens are significantly narrower, often band-shaped or linear. Many varieties get slightly wavy leaf edges under water.

Many German names of our aquarium plants indicate the underwater forms. For example, if the aquarist has a “ruby red sword plant” in front of them that has grown in a greenhouse, then they sometimes ask themselves the question of the origin of the name. Only after a few weeks of aquarium culture does it become clear what the namesake had in mind.

Epiphytes are an integral part of a beautifully planted aquarium. Tied to roots or stones, they can be used to realize a wide variety of design ideas. But which aquatic plants are best suited? How are they properly attached? And what is there to consider? In our two-parter, we will tell you some tips for designing dreamlike underwater worlds.

Which epiphytic plants are there for the aquarium?

Epiphytes for the aquarium are aquatic plants that either grow firmly on the substrate over time or can be cultivated there. In nature, plants have optimally adapted to their environmental conditions. In fast-flowing waters, it is necessary for some species to hold on to the bottom with well-adhering roots. These plants are called rheophytes. Only these are “real” epiphytes.

There are basically three types of epiphytic plants:

1. Plants that naturally gain a foothold on substrates (rheophytes)
   e.g. B. small anubias such as A. nana and A. barteri, Bucephalandra, and many mosses
2. Plants that can be made to grow on rocks or roots
   e.g. B. Microsorum species, Pogostemon helferi, Cryptocorynae beckettii
3. Plants that are tied down and otherwise float freely in the water
   e.g. B. Riccia fluitans

Fastening epiphytes: tips and tricks

First of all, you should consider the substrate on which the plant is to be attached or to grow. Decorative objects such as roots or stones are suitable, but you can also green a planted back wall or a Hamburger mat filter with epiphytes.

Epiphytes grow more easily or more quickly on wood or porous rock such as pillow lava than on smooth substrates such as basalt. On soft surfaces such as a filter mat, they can “gain a foothold” in the aquarium particularly well.
It usually takes a few weeks for an epiphyte to grow firmly on the chosen substrate. Until then, you should secure the plant. If you want to tie the plant, a thin nylon or fishing line is suitable in addition to binding wire, but you can also use normal twine.

Fastening options for epiphytes at a glance

• binding wire
• underwater glue
• twine or fishing line

In our experience, the best method for fixing epiphytic plants to roots is always the binding wire. A fishing line or underwater glue is best for attaching aquatic plants to stones. You can find out more about this in the second part of this guide.

Tip: Properly attach mosses in the aquarium

Do you want to tie down mosses, e.g. B. on a stone, it makes sense to use a hairnet. You can get it for a few cents at drugstores. The thin net is ideal for attaching fine-feathered plants to objects almost invisibly until they are firmly established.

The easiest way to attach mosses is underwater glue. For mosses, this quick-acting gel adhesive is available in small, practical tubes.

Be sure to use the most sparingly so that all the fine leaves get enough light. It takes a little patience until the moss has grown and the result looks as desired, but this is the only way for it to develop well.

Tip: plant filter mats with epiphytes

The planting of filter mats, as they are used e.g. B. be used in Hamburg mat filter. All you have to do is cut a few slits in the mat. Now stick the roots of the epiphytes or small tufts of moss into these. It couldn’t be easier! Once the mat is overgrown, it becomes almost invisible in the aquarium.

Is Riccia fluitans suitable as an epiphytic plant in the aquarium?

Especially in the aquascaping scene, Riccia fluitans, also known as floating pond liverwort, have been very popular for years. This aquatic plant can be used to create beautiful underwater landscapes. While it was formerly used floating in the water, Takashi Amano popularized the plant in the tied form. Since then, many aquarists fans have had the desire to create an equally impressive decoration in their home aquarium – and are often bitterly disappointed.

This is simply because Riccia is not an epiphyte per se, it is merely forced to stay underwater by being tied. Artfully shaped with scissors and tweezers, it looks very pretty in the aquascaping show tank. In order to maintain the splendor, however, great effort is required. Many aquarist’s friends do not know that. You will only be able to enjoy him in the long term if you take good care of Riccia and tie it up again every now and then. If you want an easy-care option, then it is better to use mosses.

Mosses – the stars among epiphytes

Mosses have been very popular as aquarium plants for a long time. They grow well on a wide variety of substrates and we can particularly recommend them as epiphytes.

With their finely feathered leaves, mosses offer many aquarium inhabitants excellent hiding places, spawning opportunities, or grazing grounds. For example, they are now indispensable in shrimp tanks. Due to their large surface, they also offer the desired bacteria a large colonization area and thus also contribute to an improvement in water quality.

The Christmas moss, whose dense, branched shoots are reminiscent of fir branches, is one of the particularly recommended species. With it z. B. planted the back wall of the aquarium excellently. You should prune the moss every now and then and thin it out if it grows too dense. Otherwise, it does not require any special care.

Our TOP 3 of the best epiphytes for the aquarium

1. Mosses (e.g. Christmas moss)
2. Anubias Nana – Zwergspeerblatt
3. Microsorum species

We can particularly recommend these aquarium plants because they are easy to cultivate, grow well on the substrate and root themselves on the substrate after a while.

Anubias, the spear leaf, looks particularly natural in combination with roots and mosses. They are robust and undemanding in terms of nutrients and light – making them an ideal plant for the beginner’s aquarium. Thanks to countless subspecies, sufficient variety is guaranteed in the aquarium.

Microsorum, the java fern, has also proven itself in the aquarium. Just as robust and diverse, there are different subspecies of the Java fern, which differ in size and leaf shape and thus ensure a sufficient selection.

Anyone looking for an epiphyte with bud sites should check out Bucephalandra.

What are your personal TOP favorites for epiphytes? We welcome comments!

What is the best method to fix epiphytes in the aquarium on the chosen substrate? It doesn’t matter whether you want to attach aquatic plants to roots, stones, or other surfaces – it is important to give the plant a reliable hold without damaging it. In our last post, we showed you which varieties are well suited as epiphytes. Today we will present the mounting options in more detail and explain what you should consider.

Stick on with underwater glue

It couldn’t be simpler: gluing on plant rhizomes has become possible in recent years with the introduction of non-toxic silicone glue that sets underwater. This method is used for the production of larger quantities of epiphytes on root wood, especially in nurseries, and has proven itself very well.

Modern underwater adhesives retain their adhesion even on wet surfaces. This offers us the opportunity to glue the thick rhizome roots of Anubien but also, for example, Cryptocoryne beckettii directly onto a lava rock or an aquarium root.

1. To do this, take a large bowl about 3 cm filled with water and place the damp object on which the plants are to be glued in the middle. A spray bottle with fresh water should also be available.
2. After the plants have been freed from the pots of any stone wool that may still be sticking under running water, place the sections to be glued on in the bowl ready to hand.
3. If several aquarium plants are to be glued to one root, then start with the lower plants and slowly work your way up. For this purpose, an approx. 1-2 cm long strand of glue from the tube is applied to the root at a suitable point.
4. The plant root is now pressed into the underwater glue in such a way that at least half of the rhizome is stuck in the glue strand.
5. In the case of heavy plant parts, it may be necessary to fix them with a rubber band, for example. Small sections of Anubias barteri nana usually do without fixage.
6. When working, you should occasionally moisten the leaves with the spray bottle so that they do not dry out.
7. When all the pieces of the epiphyte are glued on, carefully place the whole thing in a large container of water. The underwater glue binds within 24 hours so that the root can go back into the aquarium. Full strength is achieved after three days.

Already knew?

Underwater glue is also ideal for fixing moss. It is best to use the practical gel moss glue in a small tube.

Tie up with binding wire

In addition to fishing lines and twine, the binding wire has proven particularly effective for tying up aquatic plants. The suitable wire is available in the craft departments of all hardware stores for little money. When buying, make sure that the binding wire is covered with plastic and is easy to bend with your fingers. We use OBI’s 2.95 wire as shown in the photo. Depending on the size of the plant, tweezers can also be helpful when fixing.

To prepare, proceed with gluing. So prepare a bowl with water and a sprayer and free the plant roots from the rock wool. You will also need pointed pliers and small side cutters.
When tying the epiphytes, push the binding wire through the root system so that the thick rhizome is in a wire loop. Then they estimate the length of the two protruding wire ends, which is necessary to twist the wire on the opposite side of the root.

Cut the wire accordingly and twist both ends behind the piece of root first with your fingers, then with the tip of the pliers. But beware! The rhizome must not be punctured by the wire or crushed too much. Therefore, the thinnest possible, slightly flexible binding wire is better than the thicker version. In between sprays, the plant leaves several times with water.
The advantage of the wire method is, of course, that the planted roots can be put straight back into the aquarium. However, this method requires a lot of finesse to avoid damaging the roots

Untie with twine or fishing line

Tying up with twine is the most common method for tying up aquarium plants – there is a piece of twine in every household that can be used to fasten the plants. The procedure is similar to tying up the plants with binding wire.

However, when using twine or similar, it is more difficult to fix the plants in the right position. Another disadvantage: Many cotton threads stretch underwater over time and the connection loosens as a result. Some even dissolve completely. If the plant has not yet established itself by then, this can be a problem. With aquarium plants that quickly find a foothold on the substrate, it can even be desirable for the threads to disappear by themselves after one.

If you want to avoid unraveling the line, choose thin nylon or a fishing line. It is barely visible and durable. However, when tying it up, be particularly careful not to constrict or damage the aquatic plants too tightly.

The best attachment method for epiphytes – our tip:

When asked about the best method of fixing epiphytic plants to the roots, we clearly tend towards the binding wire. We recommend fishing lines or glue for attaching aquatic plants to stones.

What do you think is the best method of attaching epiphytes to the aquarium? Testimonials are welcome!

With just a few tricks, you can make your aquarium look bigger and create an interesting look: The placement and selection of substrate, decorative objects, and aquarium plants make a decisive contribution to the depth effect of the facility. We will show you here what you should pay attention to when laying out a tank so that even small aquariums can make it big and become a fascinating eye-catcher.

A larger-looking aquarium: depth effect due to the sloping substrate

The most well-known method of making the aquarium appear larger is to let the substrate of the substrate continue to rise towards the back. The aquarium gravel or sand is introduced when the tank is set up in such a way that there is a slope towards the front.

Increasing substrate not only has visual advantages but also benefits the plants in the aquarium: Since larger aquatic plants usually grow in the background, they have enough space for root development. The thinner layer in the foreground ensures that the plants don’t spread too much here and possibly restrict the view.

However, there is one problem with this method: the gravel or sand will slide forward again over time. The substrate is moved and permanently leveled by work in the aquarium or by residents such as burrowing fish or shrimp. This difficulty arises above all in freshly set up tanks in which the roots of the aquarium plants have not yet established sufficient stability in the substrate.

The only short-term solution is to occasionally move part of the substrate from the front to the back when maintaining the aquarium. An aquascaping tool such as a substrate smoother or a hose that sucks up part of the substrate and distributes it further back can be used for this.

Some aquarists try to help themselves with styrofoam plates or stones that you put under the substrate. However, these do not offer the plants any space for root development and are therefore suboptimal.

A dense carpet of ground-covering aquarium plants, on the other hand, is the best way to keep the substrate in shape. Hilly landscapes can also be realized and permanently fixed in this way.

Strips of plastic foil are a popular trick to preserve the substrate while the plants are still developing roots. The strips can either be removed after a period of time when the roots of the aquatic plants give the soil enough support, or they can remain in the aquarium.

We can particularly recommend these plants as ground cover:

• Glossostigma elatinoides – Australian tongue leaf
• Marsilea crenata – dwarf clover fern
• Eleocharis spec. ‘mini’ – dwarf needle rushes
• Cryptocoryne Parva – Small water cup
• Sigittaria subulata – Little Arrowhead
• Helanthium tenellum – Delicate swamp flower
• Hemianthis callitrichoides – Dwarf Pearlwort

Depth effect in the aquarium through optical illusions

It couldn’t be simpler: If you follow the following rule, you create the impression of depth in the tank and ensure that the aquarium looks larger and more interesting.

Take advantage of the laws of optics and create an illusion in your aquarium. Anything further ahead appears larger. Arranging your aquarium so that ornaments and plants are larger in the foreground and smaller towards the back will create the impression of depth. Because the substrate rises towards the back, the smaller decorative objects remain clearly visible and are not covered by the ones in front.

Almost every aquarist thinks of the categories “foreground, middle ground, and background” when setting up the aquarium and when selecting plants. However, a lavishly furnished and planted pool consists of additional layers – the more “multi-layered” you plant your pool, the greater the depth effect you create. Make sure the layers overlap, so the front layer doesn’t completely cover the back ones. This creates an interesting and varied pool layout.

Decoration of the back wall

The selection of the back wall or background foil should also be carefully considered. Photo-printed transparencies, which are commonly used, are not necessarily ideal for creating visual depth. The reason: the printed plants are easy to see, so there is no illusion that the background is far away.

Slightly transparent, milky-white foils are often used in the aquascaping scene, often with additional lighting. The background appears so diffuse and optically moves further back – because what lies further back we see blurred. In the home aquarium, you don’t necessarily have this possibility of optical illusion. However, foils in dark blue or black offer a good alternative.

A three-dimensional background is another way to visually add depth to the aquarium. So-called 3D backgrounds have a deep structure that can be used to create great effects. It is particularly appealing if you also green the back wall with moss or epiphytes.

When setting up the aquarium, you should think about how you want to design the tank and what elements you want to use to create depth and a varied look. But you can also use these tricks afterward to create visual depth in your aquarium and make it even more exciting.

How are your experiences? We welcome any comments on the topic.