The thread algae are one of the types of algae that are very widespread in our aquariums. It belongs to the family of green algae (Chlorophyta), which also includes hair algae, floating algae, and spot algae. Every aquarist has probably already housed one or the other form of green algae in their tank. Here we explain which factors cause the growth of filamentous algae, and how you can combat algae in the aquarium and prevent them from forming again.

Filamentous algae despite good water values

Green algae, including filamentous algae, use and need the same nutrients and trace elements in the aquarium as the aquarium plants that are deliberately introduced and cared for – from the aquarium owner’s point of view, this is unloved competition.

Filamentous algae only thrive poorly or not at all in tanks with nitrate values ​​of 40 mg/liter or more. So their occurrence in the aquarium initially seems to speak for the quality of the water values. In fact, thread algae are often found in pools that have good water quality. However, algae are generally a sign of a disturbed balance in the aquarium.

That is why the apparent contradiction at first glance may surprise some people. However, the connection is as follows: the formation of thread algae is caused, among other things, by an oversupply of nutrients. As the algae grow, they use up these substances, so that when the aquarium owner discovers filamentous algae and tests the water parameters, they will find that they are “in the green”. It becomes clear: the problem is not the thread algae, but the factors that contribute to their well-being. Research into the cause is appropriate.

Conversely, this also means that combating filamentous algae is basically simple: if aquatic plants are encouraged to grow vigorously, the larger they grow, they use more and more of the previously excess nutrients – ergo there is less food for filamentous algae.

The best method if you want to permanently eliminate thread algae is to ensure good growth of the aquarium plants.

Reasons for the appearance of thread algae

Another possible reason for the appearance of thread algae can be the lighting. If it is too bright in the tank, if the lighting is too long or too long and too intense, or if the wrong light source is chosen, this can promote the growth of thread algae and other types of algae.

Water care also plays an important role: leftover food or dead plant parts that collect in the tank can degrade the water quality and promote the growth of thread algae.

This is how the growth of thread algae is promoted:

Inappropriate lighting

• too much light in the tank (too intense or long lighting, direct sunlight)
• unsuitable technology (HQI spotlights or outdated neon tubes)

Elevated nitrate or phosphate levels, caused by

• generous feeding
• dead plant debris
• too high stocking density
• fish droppings in the water

Combat thread algae and prevent their formation

The first step in combating thread algae is simple: you must first eliminate it manually, i.e. remove it by hand. Thread algae grow as a single thread on the edges of the leaves and can reach a length of more than 30 centimeters. They are relatively easy to remove by wrapping them around your finger or aquarium tweezers like a thread. It must then be ensured that they do not form again.

If you want to permanently get rid of the unloved subtenant thread algae, the parameters described above, such as water values ​​and lighting, should first be examined. You can also find more tips in our article on algae in the aquarium.

• Check and, if necessary, reduce the lighting time, give your plants a “lunch break” without lighting and replace outdated neon tubes.
• If the pool is exposed to direct sunlight, the side facing the sun should e.g. B. can be darkened with adhesive film.
• Remove dead plant debris, check stocking density, fertilizer dosage, and your feeding habits. Less is often more here.

If the “with patience and spit” method did not lead to success and the elimination of the thread algae worked, but they settled back in, make sure that existing plants continue to grow through a targeted supply of trace elements. Due to the increased growth, your aquarium plants need significantly more nutrients, which are no longer available to the thread algae.

Algae-eating fish and shrimp for the aquarium

If stocking density and the type of fish kept so far allow it, Nanocheirodon insignis or flag cichlids – the only fish known to eat filamentous algae – can be used. Amano shrimp also feast on filamentous algae and other green algae (Chlorophyta). However, the shrimp only eat the 2-3 mm long, tender, young shoots and unfortunately also the leaves of various aquarium mosses.

Products to combat thread algae

• Dennerle S7 and Dennerle PlantaGold 7 – free from phosphates and nitrates, they promote plant growth
• Filament Algae Kill by Dennerle – activated oxygen (hydrogen peroxide), breaks down very quickly into water and oxygen. Simply sprinkle on the thread algae. Contains neither copper nor organic herbicides, is free of chemicals, and absolutely harmless.
• Algen-Ex by Aquality – without copper/other heavy metals, use over 4 weeks, increases plant growth/nutrient competition
• AlgExit from Easy Life – harmless to fish, shrimp, snails, or plants, use over 4 weeks
• Phosphate-Ex by Dennerle – a highly effective preparation to prevent algae by removing nutrients with lanthanum phosphate scavenger, long-lasting effect
• UV-C clarifier – emits germicidal UV-C radiation that does not change the water parameters and has no effect on the filter bacteria

You can find suitable products in our fertilizer category in our aquarium plant shop.

We hope that we were able to help you with our information and tips on thread algae and how to combat them. What are your experiences with thread algae? We are looking forward to your comments!

Healthy plant growth is the basis for the ecological balance in the aquarium.

Conversely, the condition of the aquarium plants is an important indicator of whether the aquarium offers good living conditions for plants and animals. Therefore, you should regularly check the health and growth of your plants. However, beginners in particular are often not sure what to look out for. Go through the aquarium checklist about once a week and you’ve done the most important things for your aquarium plants.

Do the aquarium plants look healthy?

Take a look at your aquarium plants at regular intervals. Do they grow evenly and vigorously? Are they forming healthy new leaves and shoots? Even if you don’t have a green thumb yet, over time you’ll gain an insight into whether your plants are doing well.

Check the aquarium plants for abnormalities such as:

• Discoloration of leaves (eg, yellowing or whitening, spots, or streaks)
• Deformations of the blades (e.g. waves or bends)
• Holes or black spots in the leaves
• Growth in length (large distance between the leaves on the stems)
• short stature (new leaves are very small in size)
• Low propagation of the plant (e.g. with floating plants)
• Increased dying of the leaves or shoot tips

While length growth is a sign of too little light, disturbed growth and changes in the plants usually indicate a lack of a certain nutrient.

If you notice signs of this type in your plants, you should find out what the plant needs and use water tests to check for nutrient deficiencies.

Are aquatic plants infested with algae?

Increased growth of algae in the aquarium is usually a sign that your aquarium plants are not doing well. If the water values ​​are not in balance, the lighting is unsuitable or if the aquatic plants do not have sufficient nutrients, this can inhibit their growth. Algae will settle for far less and thrive even under difficult conditions. Help the aquarium plants regain the upper hand! You can find tips on this in our article Algae in the aquarium
If you find that algae are growing on your aquatic plants, remove them manually and get to the bottom of the cause of algae growth as quickly as possible.

Is there snail damage on the aquarium plants?

Smaller snail species such as ramshorn or bladder snails are desirable stocks in most aquariums. They play an important role in consuming leftovers and do not normally multiply excessively. Aquarium plants are of no interest as a food source for most snails, as they feed on leftover food, growth, or algae.

However, if too much is fed, the snail population in the aquarium can increase rapidly. As a rule, it is only when there is a great shortage of food that the snails start eating healthy parts of the aquatic plants. However, it often looks as if snails are eating aquarium plants, as they devour dead and diseased plant parts. Alleged damage caused by snails can also be a sign that your aquarium plants are not healthy.

If you find a lot of snails in the tank, collect some of them regularly. Check the aquatic plants for signs of disease if you see a lot of feeding damage.

Are the water values ​​of the aquarium in the optimal range?

Not every aquarium owner constantly keeps an eye on the water values ​​in his aquarium and depending on which animals and plants are being cared for, this is not always necessary. However, it is also helpful, especially for beginners, to have an overview of the water parameters.

The most important water parameters include:

• pH — This should be in the range of 6.5 to 7.5 for the vast majority of aquatic plants.
  The total hardness GH — It is in the aquarium-suitable range in most tap water. If the total hardness is well above 20 °dGH, we recommend water treatment with an osmosis system. For smaller, so-called nano aquariums, you can also use distilled water from the hardware store to mix with tap water.
• The carbonate hardness KH — It is also referred to as temporary hardness. Depending on the carbon dioxide content and pH value, the carbonate hardness changes over the course of the day. Their influence on plant growth is only indirectly important.
  The nitrate NO3 — nitrate is not as problematic for plants as is often assumed. It is formed in the aquarium from the metabolic products ammonia (NH4) and ammonium (NH3), which are burned via nitrite (NO2) to form nitrate (NO3). Plants prefer to “eat” the ammonium. Unfortunately, this is rather short-lived. Therefore, the plants are forced to take up nitrate as a source of nitrogen. In concentrations above 50 mg/l, nitrate is toxic to fish and invertebrates. However, plants could easily tolerate even higher concentrations. With regular water changes, you should keep the nitrate content below 20 mg/l for the sake of the fish.
• Nitrite NO2 — Nitrite is toxic to fish and plants and should therefore only be present in the aquarium in homeopathic doses. In a healthy aquarium environment, however, it is very quickly oxidized to nitrate by the ubiquitous nitrobacterium. A higher concentration of nitrite can only occur during the start-up phase of the aquarium. Therefore, fish should only be used after the so-called nitpick
• Carbon dioxide CO2 — Carbon dioxide dissolves in water and supplies the plants with the necessary carbon for their biomass. A part is converted into carbonic acid H2CO3 in the water. This in turn plays a major role in the relationship between carbonate hardness and pH. However, it has only an indirect meaning for plant growth. Many plants also grow without the addition of CO2. However, you can clearly see from aquariums with CO2 fertilization that the plants produce larger and somehow healthier-looking leaves and shoots.
  Determine the values ​​with simple droplet tests that you can get from specialist retailers. You can also have your aquarium water tested in many specialist aquarium shops. The test devices that are used for this purpose are usually only worth buying for very ambitious hobby or professional aquarists.

For owners of demanding aquarium plants, a long-term CO2 test may be worthwhile, on which the carbon dioxide value can be easily read. So keep an eye on it all the time. You can also use the pH and KH values ​​to calculate the CO2 value. Useful tools and tables can be found online.

If the test result deviates from the desired values, take appropriate measures. By regularly checking the water values, you ensure that your aquarium plants always find optimal growth conditions.

Do plants need to be thinned or cut back?

Regular pruning and thinning out of the aquarium plants is part of plant care. As with all changes that are made in the aquarium, the following also applies here: smaller interventions are better than large changes. The latter damages plant growth and can have a negative effect on the ecological balance in the aquarium.

Conversely, this does not mean that you should tug at your aquarium plants as often as possible. Every reaches into the aquarium means stress for the residents and you are also doing the plants a disservice. It is best to do all the necessary work as part of the weekly plant care when changing the water.
These include, for example:

• Floating plants should be thinned out regularly so that the tank is not darkened too much. If the floating plants multiply, this is a sign of a good supply of nutrients in the aquarium.
• Prune stem plants if they get too long and replant the top cutting in front of the cut plant. This will branch out so that you gradually get a dense thicket of plants.
• Many cushion-forming plants are grateful for regular pruning. In this way, all parts of the plant receive sufficient light. Cut back the plants where they grow too dense, preferably with aquarium scissors.
• You can cut off the offshoots of rhizome plants, such as water calyxes, which spread too far in the aquarium or grow into other plants. Simply put the offshoots back in a different place.

Lend a hand where the plants overgrow too much so that the view into the aquarium is restricted. The same applies where the vegetation is so strong that parts of the plant no longer receive sufficient light.

Are there dead plant parts in the aquarium?

You don’t have to collect isolated yellow or decomposing leaves immediately – even if it may bother you visually at first glance. A withering leaf here and there is definitely part of a natural aquarium. The decomposing plant material and the microorganisms that settle on it can also serve as a source of food for the animals in the aquarium.

For this reason, many aquarium owners bring dried foliage into their tanks. It is an excellent source of food for shrimp and snails, for example, and has a positive effect on water parameters by lowering the pH value. It can remain in the aquarium until it has completely decomposed.

Remove dead plant parts from the aquarium when changing the water regularly. If you want to remove old leaves from plants, carefully cut them off with a very sharp knife or razor blade.

Are the aquarium plants supplied with fertilizer?

Fertilizing with liquid fertilizer plays an important role in the care of aquatic plants in the aquarium because many aquarium plants absorb nutrients with their leaves. Most aquarium owners fertilize as part of the water change. However, do not forget that the water that is not exchanged also loses nutrients. If there is no water change, it should also be fertilized regularly.

Does the aquarium fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions and be careful not to use too much fertilizer. Also remember to regularly supply plants that get their nutrition through the roots with fertilizer balls or tabs, unless this is ensured by a nutrient medium. If you are caring for demanding aquarium plants, you will also not be able to avoid CO2 fertilization.

It can be helpful, especially for beginners, to check the nutrient supply in the aquarium using water tests and, for example, to measure the iron value (Fe) in addition to the basic water values. In this way, you do not only notice a nutrient deficiency when it becomes visible on the plants – and you can always offer your aquarium plants optimal conditions.

Keep an eye on your aquarium plants and the nutrient content of the water. Fertilize regularly as much as necessary and pay attention to the special requirements of your plants.
Do you have comments or questions about our aquarium checklist?
We appreciate your comments!

Brush algae, like all algae in the aquarium, are caused by an imbalance. In this case, there is a nutrient imbalance. The unloved type of algae occurs mainly when fertilization is too high, especially when iron fertilization is too high. But other factors can also promote the growth of brush algae. You can find out what these are and how to get rid of the algae here.

Brush algae – appearance and behavior in the tank

Brush algae belong to the group of red algae. Their color palette ranges from deep black through all shades of gray to dark green. Visually, brush algae resemble small brushes and have a bushy appearance.

One thing brush weed has in common with bearded is that they mostly attach themselves to hardscape – i.e. to furnishings and decorative objects that are more or less static in the tank. They are very tight and difficult to remove.

The housing of internal filters, stones, or roots is therefore the preferred settlement site for brush algae. Brush algae also love places with strong currents. Occasionally they also grow on slow-growing plants such as Anubias and Microsorum. They usually cannot be plucked off without damaging the leaves of the aquarium plants.

Identify red algae

A simple test to determine whether the “subtenant” is a red alga: put a sample of the alga in alcohol. If the alga turns red, then it is a red alga. Their growth habit should then facilitate further identification.
Common causes for the appearance of brush algae
Brush algae can be found in all types of aquariums – they conquer densely planted aquascapes as well as sparsely planted fish tanks. However, brush algae do not seem to spread through flying spores. If they suddenly appear in the aquarium, they have definitely been brought in by plants, decorations, or water from other aquariums.

Three factors favor the mass spread of this stubborn algae:

Pollution of the water

In pure fish tanks with a high stocking density and only sparse planting, the black brush algae often occur. Heavy feeding and the resulting high organic load, possibly favored by too few or too few water changes, create conditions in which the black brush algae feel very comfortable.

Another possible reason for the occurrence of brush algae is the accumulation of sludge in the substrate or in the filter. The simplest way to counteract this is to clean the soil from sludge by vacuuming or washing out the filter material.

Low carbon dioxide content

The lack of a CO2 system can also be responsible for the occurrence or growth of brush algae. The level of free carbon dioxide (CO2) in the water plays an important role in the occurrence of brush algae. If the aquarium water contains too little CO2, red algae and thus also the brush algae are able to satisfy the need for carbon from hydrogen carbonate much more easily than higher aquatic plants.

Hydroxide ions are formed by splitting off the carbon from the hydrogen carbonate ion, which increases the pH value. This triggers what is known as biogenic decalcification: Lime (calcium carbonate) is released, which the brush algae build into their cell walls, making them harder and less attractive to predators.

High iron content

If fertilizer is used with a complete iron fertilizer, it is advisable to reduce the amount. With a reliable test method, the iron content should be tested. If the aquatic plants develop very light shoot tips when the brush algae appear – a sign of iron deficiency – we recommend switching to a weaker complete iron fertilizer. It may be worth switching to pure iron fertilization without trace elements.

Brush algae and the solution to the problem

The right fertilizer for brush algae

If brush algae have spread in your aquarium, you should only use complete iron fertilizer very sparingly. Only use it when the taller plants show signs of deficiency in the form of yellowish leaves.

For fertilization we recommend instead:

• Plant Growth Premium (a complete fertilizer for aquatic plants from Tropica)
• Plant Growth specialized (an iron-free macronutrient fertilizer from Tropica)

Control of brush algae

You can also combat brush algae directly. Easy Carbo from Easy Life is suitable for this, which you simply add to the aquarium. According to the manufacturer’s instructions, use 1 to 2 ml per 50 liters of aquarium water.

After a few days of treatment, the brush algae should take on a whitish to pink color. Now you can stop the treatment. The dead algae can now be eaten by algae-eating aquarium inhabitants, such as ramshorn snails or Amano shrimp.

Fogging with Easy Carbo or hydrogen peroxide offers a more targeted application.
Draw a usual daily dose into a syringe and spray brush algae directly under water. Filters or flow pumps should be switched off for a few minutes. Please note, however, that sensitive plants – especially mosses – can react sensitively to the treatment.

Preventive measures against brush algae

The course of brush algae spread is always the same. If you walk through the pet shops with your eyes wide open, you will often notice decorative objects in poorly maintained facilities, which are overgrown with brush algae on the edges. Due to the often common central filtration and non-disinfected nets, the algae are spread throughout the facility.

If you transfer an “infested” stone or a root from such a system to a previously brush algae-free tank, the algae show up after a while first in the areas exposed to the current. The filter spout is very popular here. When the algae reach a certain age, tiny spores are formed, which spread throughout the tank and colonize any suitable spot. If at all, the fight can only be won with radical measures.

The spread can also be counteracted by preventive measures.

UVC sterilization has proven to be particularly effective. The water is run through a UVC sterilizer, killing the algae spores.

Combat brush algae with UVC sterilizers

There are these devices for aquariums and for garden ponds. The sterilizers for ponds are significantly cheaper. We use devices with 5 to max. 11 watts. The effect is amazing. The water is crystal clear after a few days and no new brush algae settle. The older algae foci are removed as far as possible. Affected plants are either treated with Easy Carbo or replaced completely.

Decorative objects can be taken out of the basin, rubbed with salt, and brushed thoroughly under running water after a day.

For the future:

• never, never, ever put objects or plants from aquariums with brush algae into your own tank.
• When introducing fish, never pour the water into the aquarium.
• Always disinfect landing nets from “brush algae aquariums” or only use them for these aquariums.

We hope that our information and tips will help you to combat brush algae.
What are your experiences with brush algae? We are looking forward to your comments!

Beard algae belong to the red algae. They sit on aquarium plants and objects and, especially when they are young, bear some resemblance to brush algae. Beard algae are very stubborn, which is why it is not always so easy to drive them out of the aquarium for good. We’ll show you how to do it here.

Beard Algae – Appearance and Behavior in the Tank

Beard algae only show that they belong to the red algae group when they are placed in alcohol: this is when the typical red color comes to light. In the aquarium, they show up in all imaginable shades of gray up to black. They resemble brush algae in appearance but have much longer growths that float in the current like hair. Beard algae can reach a length of several centimeters in the tank. The longer such a “hair” becomes, the more likely it is to ring and curl – just like a long whisker. Beard algae love currents and therefore often settle on the filter or on plants or decorative objects near it.

Common causes of beard algae in the aquarium

Unfortunately, once beard algae have spread in the aquarium, it is often difficult and time-consuming to get rid of them. So the rule is: prevention is the better thing to worry about – as always when it comes to algae.

Keep these factors in mind to prevent algae from forming in your aquarium. The aquarium inhabitants and aquatic plants will also thank you for that.

• Adjusting the stocking to the size of the tankless is more.
• Don’t overfeed and have a “fast day” once a week.
• This corresponds to the natural diet of fish.
• Carry out sufficient, preferably generous, water changes regularly.
• Plant your aquarium as lavishly as possible – preferably with fast-growing plants.
• Illuminate your tank so that it meets the needs of animals and plants.
• Fertilize your aquarium plants with CO2.
• If possible, sterilize the aquarium water using a UVC lamp. This also prevents all other types of algae.

Beard algae and the solution to the problem

Beard algae grow very firmly with the substrate you have chosen so that it is almost impossible to pluck them off completely. By removing it by hand, you can bring your aquarium back into shape optically, but there are almost always remnants of the beard algae. New algae soon form from these residues, which quickly recover and blossom again. So this method alone is not enough.

We advise you to take these measures to combat beard algae:

• The first thing you should do is either throttle the current in the aquarium or change the direction of the current. Since beard algae are very affine with currents, this is certainly a first step in the right direction.
• If individual leaves of your aquarium plants are affected, you should remove them rigorously. If several leaves of a plant are affected, it is advisable to pinch off the plant just above the ground or to remove the entire plant.
• Once bearded algae have settled on ornamental items in the aquarium that can be easily removed, removal is a little easier, provided the items can withstand high temperatures unscathed. Items should be boiled, then rinsed thoroughly, and scrubbed until completely clean. It is best to repeat this process. Only when the decorative item has been completely freed from the beard algae can you put it back in the basin. If you are not sure whether you were able to remove all the beard algae, it is better to dispose of the decorative parts.
• Particularly beautiful stones or roots that you would like to keep can be covered with a layer of table salt approx. 5 mm thick, even when wet. The hygroscopic effect of the salt deprives the algae of water and they die. We also destroy algae residues in the adhesive edges of older aquariums before they are replanted after general cleaning.

The removal of the beard algae becomes difficult when, for example, stone structures firmly bonded to the glass or the bottom of the tank are infested with beard algae. In this case, consider whether a complete redesign of the aquarium would be a sensible solution. In this pool, you can create conditions right from the start that prevent beard algae from forming in the first place.

Algae-eating animals to control beard algae

Some types of snails, shrimp, the Siamese Algae Eater, or the Netweed Algae Eater are also suitable for preventing and combating algae.

However, only acquire these animals if you are also interested in caring for the animal itself and you have the right conditions in your aquarium. The Siamese Algae Eater is up to 15 centimeters long, the Netweed Algae Eater can reach a length of up to 17 centimeters. If you have the opportunity to care for these animals, they can be of great help in the fight against beard algae.

We hope that we have been able to help you with our information and tips on beard algae and how to combat them. What are your experiences with beard algae? We are looking forward to your comments!

Blue-green algae are also known as slime algae due to their consistency. They used to be counted among the algae and are still often referred to as such today. In the biological sense, however, it is not a type of algae: blue-green algae are cyanobacteria. However, they have one thing in common with algae: in the aquarium, they are formed as a result of an imbalance in the water chemistry. Blue-green algae or slime algae are usually colored green-grey to brown-blue. They are easily recognized by their characteristic appearance.

Which aquarium plants are attacked by blue-green algae?

Blue-green algae attack all kinds of aquarium plants. They particularly like to perch on the leaves. A coating of slimy algae prevents plants from photosynthesizing and thus from nutrient uptake. If a plant in the aquarium is completely covered by them, it will soon wither – unless you help the plant quickly. Fortunately, the blue or slime algae are usually easy to eliminate.

Help plants affected by blue-green algae quickly – otherwise the bacteria will continue to thrive and the causes of the algae infestation will be further aggravated.

How are blue-green algae formed in the aquarium?

Just like aquarium plants and algae, which belong to the lower plants, blue-green algae need one thing above all to grow: light. Just like plants, they make their food by using photosynthesis, i.e. converting light energy into food.

Algae already have the advantage over aquarium plants that they make fewer demands on their environment and still thrive whereas aquatic plants are already reacting with reduced growth. Cyanobacteria (or blue-green algae or slime algae) are an even stronger competitor: while plants can only use a part of the light spectrum for photosynthesis, blue-green algae are able to utilize the light spectrum almost completely.

A problem for aquarium owners is that blue-green algae not only compete with the aquarium plants and prevent them from photosynthesizing, which further exacerbates the problem: the inhabitants of the aquarium can also be endangered by cyanobacteria. They often release toxins, i.e. poisonous substances.

Facts about cyanobacteria

• Some cyanobacteria do not produce oxygen during photosynthesis.
• Many species engage in nitrogen oxidation: nitrogen (N2) is converted into ammonium (NH4 +).
• Cyanobacteria produce very different toxins.

Caution: Blue-green or slime algae are not only a threat to aquarium plants, but also to animals and invertebrates that are kept in the aquarium.

Identify blue-green algae in the aquarium

Thanks to their typical properties, blue-green algae are usually easy to identify.

Odor. Do you notice an unpleasant, putrid, musty smell when you open the aquarium?
Looks. Can you see greasy deposits that are not rich green but rather dark green or bluish?
texture
Do decorative items covered by the algae feel greasy or slippery?

Based on these characteristics, blue-green algae can be easily distinguished from other, real types of algae such as green algae.

Eliminating the cause and combating it

There can be reasons for an infestation with cyanobacteria

• Water changes done too infrequently or too little
• Inadequate maintenance of the aquarium
• Too many fish and/or invertebrates
• Feeding too much and/or too often
• Lighting too intense or too long
• Filter performance too high (phosphate values ​​increase sharply)

First step: If you discover blue-green algae in your aquarium, immediately check all the important factors. You can also find more tips in our article on algae in the aquarium.

Second step: An increased phosphate value should be reduced immediately by throttling the filter system. If this is done, you have already laid the foundation for the removal of the blue-green algae.

Third step: Remove the existing blue-green algae from the aquarium as thoroughly as possible – by skimming them off, sucking them off with a hose, or cleaning the infested surfaces.

A dark cure against blue-green algae infestation

Have you carried out all the measures but still not been able to get rid of the blue-green algae?
Then try a so-called dark cure.

To do this, proceed as follows:

• Water change of at least 80 percent of the pool contents
• Additional aeration of the aquarium using a membrane pump
• throttling of filter performance
• Setting the CO2 fertilization, if available

Once these preparations have been made, cover the aquarium completely so that no more light can get in – for example with a blanket or with cardboard on the aquarium panes. Do not feed your fish or feed them as little as possible during the dark cure. After three days of dark cure, change the water (up to 50 percent), after seven days you can illuminate the pool again. Perform a water change of up to 90 percent again.

If the dark cure was successful, the cynobacteria, blue-green algae, or slime algae in your aquarium should now be eliminated. The advantage of this method is: It does not require any chemical algaecides. In principle, these should only be used if the causes of an algae infestation have been identified and eliminated.

We are happy if we could help you with our information and tips on blue-green algae and how to combat them. What is your experience with cyanobacteria? We look forward to your comments!

Brown algae and diatoms like to settle in newly set up aquariums. They usually disappear by themselves as soon as the biological balance in the tank is established and the water parameters stabilize. In the start-up phase of aquariums, the diatom is clearly one of the most frequently occurring types of algae. Here we explain how they fight the algae and identify them reliably.

Brown algae/diatoms in the aquarium

The good news for aquarium owners who discover brown or diatoms in their tank: They do not pose any direct danger to the inhabitants of the aquarium – unlike, for example, the so-called blue-green algae, which produce toxins. These can threaten aquarium inhabitants and aquatic plants.
Compared to other types of algae, such as brush or beard algae, diatoms are relatively easy to remove and enter if the water conditions are not affected by e.g. B. abruptly change a very large water change, usually not again.

Even if the diatom is one of the harmless algae, it should be fought early. However, if you discover algae or growths in your aquarium, these must first be identified, because the first step in combating algae is always the correct determination of the type of algae.

Especially if you have a newly set up tank, it is likely that it is harmless brown algae or diatoms. However, it is important to be safe. Only when you can reliably identify the type of algae can you decide whether immediate action is necessary. With diatoms, it is also possible to wait until the problem resolves itself. This can be fatal for other types of algae.

How to recognize the brown algae or diatom:

The diatom is brown in color and forms greasy, unsightly carpets on the substrate, windows, stones, and plants. If it hasn’t disappeared even after the running-in phase, it can be assumed that there is an imbalance in the pelvis that needs to be specifically combated. Sometimes aquarists only notice the brown algae when they say: The aquarium plants are turning brown. In truth, the plants themselves do not discolor but are overgrown by the diatoms.
Read more: Our further article explains further information about different algae in the aquarium. There you will find out, for example, how you can avoid algae in the aquarium or which types of algae can appear in the aquarium.

Common causes for the appearance of brown algae/diatoms

The occurrence of brown algae or diatoms during the start-up period of the aquarium is not uncommon and also not a real threat, as it usually disappears on its own.

However, if the diatoms remain in the aquarium well beyond the tank’s break-in period or only appear months later, you should act. Check the most important parameters and correct them if necessary. You can find more tips on this in our article on combating algae in the aquarium.

The occurrence of brown algae/diatoms is favored by

• unsuitable water values
• obsolete or inappropriate light bulbs
• wrong lighting times
• neglected pelvic care
• too high phosphate levels

Diatoms or brown algae feel particularly comfortable in tanks with weak lighting. Here it is important to intensify the type of lighting, extend the lighting time, or replace the lamps, taking into account the needs of all pool residents. But be careful: the lighting must not be too strong either, otherwise other types of algae could feel invited.

Tip: The light spectrum of fluorescent tubes changes with increased service life. Change the bulbs at regular intervals. In this way, you ensure optimal lighting at all times.

Neglecting the care of the aquarium also creates good conditions for the occurrence of brown algae or diatoms. Carry out regular partial water changes, depending on the size of the pool, at weekly or bi-weekly intervals. Depending on the stock type and density, clean the filter and the filter material regularly every four to six weeks – but never at the same time as changing the water.

Successfully combat brown algae/diatoms

Brown algae or diatoms can be removed manually quite easily, as they do not stick to the substrate as stubbornly as brush or beard algae. Diatoms can easily be wiped off aquarium panes or other surfaces. You can also easily vacuum them off the substrate.
After wiping and vacuuming, a larger partial water change (up to 80 percent of the pool contents) follows, during which many of the algae parts floating in the water are removed. If you carry out the steps of wiping, vacuuming, and partial water changes on several days in a row, most of the diatoms should be eliminated. It is now a matter of permanently preventing their return by ensuring optimal conditions in your aquarium.

How to eliminate stubborn brown algae/diatoms

If the algae have spread a lot, manual removal is not a sufficient solution. If more diatoms appear in your aquarium outside of the start-up phase, you have to resort to other means.

The method of “dark cure”, the darkening of the aquarium for several days, which is successful with many other types of algae, is unfortunately of little help with diatoms, as they can get by with very little light for a long time.

If you cannot permanently get rid of the diatoms or brown algae by extensively changing the water and adjusting the water parameters, the only option is to use chemical agents. However, you should only use these if you have checked all parameters thoroughly and the manual methods of combating algae remain ineffective.

Remember: A treatment with chemical agents represents a significant intervention in the balance of the aquarium and is therefore always an emergency solution. If you cannot get the algae under control in any other way, you can use AlgExit from Easy Life, which, according to the manufacturer, is also effective against other types of algae in addition to diatoms.

It is always best to do without chemical algaecides. If you take good care of your aquarium and keep the water values ​​in an optimal balance, you will succeed in most cases.
We wish you every success in eliminating the brown algae or diatoms in your aquarium and hope that we have been able to help you with our tips. What are your experiences with brown algae? We look forward to your contributions and comments!

If you set up a new aquarium or want to ban algae from your tank, you should use plants that grow as quickly as possible. Due to their rapid growth, the aquarium plants remove excess nutrients from the water and at the same time ensure a good supply of oxygen. In tanks without a filter, fast-growing aquarium plants are also indispensable.

Especially among the stem plants, which are offered in bunches or rooted in pots, there are many species that convince with their fast growth. But even among the rosette and rhizome plants, some representatives convince of a high growth rate. We would like to present a short profile of some aquatic plants for the aquarium, which are among the particularly fast-growing aquarium plants.

Profiles for aquarium plants: fast-growing and easy to care for

False water friend – Gymnocoronis spilanthoides

The “false water lover” is a hardy marsh plant. In the aquarium, she is an undemanding and grateful fosterling. The stem plant can reach a height of more than one meter. In the aquarium, the shoot tips of the false water friend are regularly shortened, which also leads to denser growth. The plant forms roots on the lower leaf bases, which draw excess nutrients from the water. Therefore, it is a popular nutrient consumer and is ideal for initial planting and algae control.

Tip: If you like the plant, you should also take a look at the giant water friend Hygrophila corymbose, also called the cherry leaf plant. We can also particularly recommend this as a fast-growing aquarium plant.

False water friend, Gymnocoronis spilanthoides

Gymnocoronis spilanthoides is a flexible aquarium plant that adapts readily to its surroundings. Beginners get along well with the species from South America, professional aquarists appreciate its decorative appearance.
The light green foliage of Gymnocoronis spilanthoides creates beautiful contrasts in the aquarium, especially in combination with reddish plants. At a height of up to one meter, Gymnocoronis spilanthoides has to be shortened occasionally, otherwise, the shoots will grow above the water surface, which also sets accents. Emers may develop white inflorescences that eventually give rise to seeds.

Purple Parrot Leaf – Alternanthera reineckii rosaefolia or “Pink”

The purple parrot leaf forms a nice contrast to other aquarium plants. Its interesting growth habit and the nicely colored red undersides of the leaves characterize its characteristic appearance. New shoots constantly sprout from the leaf axils – this creates a dense growth. This can also be stimulated by propagating top cuttings, which causes the mother plant to form new side shoots. The parrot leaf loves bright locations. If kept too dark, the spaces between the leaves will increase as the plant attempts to grow rapidly towards the light.

Asian Water Screw – Vallisneria Asiatica

Various Valliserie species can be found in our aquariums and embellish the middle ground and background there. The easy-care and fast-growing aquarium plant is happy about a good supply of light and is otherwise quite undemanding. It prefers harder water and is therefore a popular plant for the perch aquarium. Depending on the species, Vallisneria can reach a considerable length and are therefore also ideal for large tanks. In small pools, they quickly flood in the current. Propagation takes place via subterranean offshoots that can be separated and replanted.

Brazilian Pennywort, Hydrocotyle leucocephala

The Brazilian pennywort is a popular aquarium plant that scores with its versatility:
It can be cultivated both as a flooding plant and planted, with regular pruning it is also suitable for the foreground, can grow climbing around roots and other decorative objects, and can even green a Hamburg mat filter. Floating on the surface, the Brazilian pennywort also makes a good floating plant. It is extremely adaptable and robust and an ideal plant for algae control or for the first time in the aquarium.

Brazilian pennywort – Hydrocotyle leucocephala XL plant

A very undemanding stem plant is the “Brazilian pennywort” Hydrocotyle leucocephala. The Dennerle plant collectors discovered the plant in the shallow water of crystal-clear rivers, but also in the damp underground of the dense jungle. It grows very quickly in the aquarium and is highly recommended for beginners. As soon as the shoots have reached the water surface, they continue to grow in a flooding manner. Due to the rapid growth, the stems often have to be shortened and replanted.

Waterweed – Egeria densa

The lush green plant, which is also native to us, originally comes from South America. It is one of the most popular fast-growing aquarium plants and is also often found in garden ponds. It feels just as comfortable floating as it does plant and makes hardly any demands on the keeping conditions – the ideal aquarium plant even for beginners. Propagation is by cuttings planted in the ground. This quickly creates a pretty, dense growth. The dark green color and the fine leaves contrast nicely with the rest of the planting.

Amazon sword plants – e.g. B. Echinodorus barthii or Echinodorus Ocelot Green

Echinodorus plants have long been extremely popular as aquarium plants. As a solitary plant, they are a wonderful eye-catcher in the aquarium. However, they need good lighting and a supply of CO2 for rapid growth. With good light and nutrient conditions, they grow very quickly and reach an impressive size. The rosette plant likes to spread, especially in width, so the outer leaves may need to be trimmed. Propagation takes place via adventitious plants (small plants that form on the mother plant) or via rhizome division.

Tip: If you buy plants in a bunch, they will take a while to develop roots. Only then do they grow as fast as they used to. This waiting time does not apply to rooted potted plants.
There are many other fast-growing aquarium plants that we can recommend. If you are looking for new plants for your aquarium, your specialist dealer will certainly be happy to advise you on the selection.

Which aquatic plants grow fastest in your tank? We look forward to reports and comments!