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Pets September 29, 2022

How Much Nitrate Is Safe In An Aquarium?

In a functioning aquarium, organic material is broken down by microorganisms. Leftover food, dead plant matter or animal excretions are decomposed by bacteria. The end product of the nitrification chain is nitrate. The level of nitrate in the aquarium says a lot about the water quality and the biological balance.

The nitrogen cycle

Ammonia is excreted by the fish and reacts in the water to form ammonium. This is not toxic, but it can break down to highly toxic free ammonia at a pH above seven. Ammonia is broken down into nitrite (NO2). This in turn to nitrate (NO3).

Ammonia (NH3) > Nitrite (NO2) > Nitrate (NO3)

Ammonia: very toxic for fish (the optimal level is 0 mg/l, concentrations from 0.1 mg/l can be lethal for fish)
Nitrite: toxic for fish (the optimal nitrite level is 0 mg/l, concentrations of 1 mg/l and more can kill fish)
Nitrate: only toxic in high concentrations (values between 50 and 100 mg/l are still considered tolerable)

Too much nitrate in the aquarium: a warning sign

Too high a nitrate level in the aquarium is not directly dangerous, but it is an important warning signal. It is an indicator of poor water quality and maintenance. Because if the aquarium is in balance, there is only so little nitrate that the aquatic plants can absorb it and any excess is eliminated by regular partial water changes.

If you measure increased nitrate levels, you should look for the cause. Check equipment such as filtration and lighting, check the rest of the water parameters, make sure you’re caring for your aquarium and aquatic plants properly, and reconsider stocking and feeding habits. Otherwise you have to reckon with problems such as the formation of algae.

Reasons for too much nitrate in the aquarium

High stocking density
Overfeeding
Insufficient filter performance
Few or too slow growing aquatic plants
Poor aquarium care or not enough partial water changes

The optimal nitrate content in the aquarium

Nitrate plays an important role in the aquarium. Aquatic plants need nitrate as a nutrient. In good growing conditions, fast-growing plants absorb excess nitrate from the water. In the case of very heavily planted aquariums without stocking, fertilization with nitrate may also be necessary (up to 5 mg/l are consumed per day).

If there are too many decomposition products, or if there are too few plants, nitrate can accumulate in the aquarium. Limit values for the nitrate value in fish farming are discussed controversially and differ depending on the species. The following values are usually given:

Community tanks: 100 mg/l should not be exceeded in the long term, a value below 25 mg/l is recommended;

Plant tanks: 10 to 25 mg/l;

Shrimp tanks < 25 mg/l (<15 mg/l for high breeding);

Breeding tanks: The value should be as low as possible lie.

Measures to be taken if there is too much nitrate in the aquarium

Perform partial water changes to remove nitrate

The first measure to take when the nitrate level is too high is to change the water with low-nitrate water. It helps to quickly lower the nitrate in the aquarium, but is not a permanent solution. If you do not eliminate the causes, the value will quickly increase again.

Use aquatic plants that use nitrate as food

Ensure dense planting in your aquarium. Fast-growing aquarium plants absorb a particularly large amount of nitrate. Aquatic plants not only absorb nitrate, but also generate oxygen – which benefits the nitrifying bacteria, the plants and the inhabitants of the pool. They are an important part of the ecosystem in the aquarium.

Reduce stocking to reduce organic waste

In tanks in which many animals live and which may also be sparsely planted, there is often a particularly large amount of nitrate. Make sure your aquarium is stocked too high. The number and size of the fish and other tank inhabitants must match the aquarium size.

Use filter media against nitrate

Constant partial water changes are not a solution if you want to permanently reduce nitrate. Especially if the tap water itself contains a lot of nitrate. You can reduce the nitrate value in the aquarium in the long term by filtering. You can get high-performance filter media commercially that help remove nitrate from the water. There are two possibilities:

Biological filtration: Large numbers of nitrate-degrading bacteria can settle on the large surface of the porous filter material.
Ion exchanger: Resins as a filter medium bind nitrate ions, in return they release chloride ions into the water.

Frequently asked questions about nitrate in the aquarium

Is the nitrate in my aquarium too high?

That depends on the needs of the animals you are caring for. The nitrate level in the aquarium should normally be below 25 mg/l. Between 50 mg/l and 100 mg/l in the aquarium water are considered harmless for most fish. If the nitrate content in your aquarium exceeds 100 mg/l, you should carry out a partial water change and take measures to permanently reduce the nitrate.

How can I measure nitrate?

You can determine the nitrate value yourself quickly and easily at home with a droplet test or a test strip. These are available from aquarium retailers. Many dealers also offer their customers to test a water sample they have brought from the aquarium. The purchase of professional test devices such as those used here is only worthwhile for very ambitious hobby aquarists or professionals.

How often should I check the nitrate level?

It is advisable to regularly check the nitrate level in the aquarium before the partial water change. If there is a lot of nitrite in the aquarium water, the water change can be a little more generous. If the aquarium is running smoothly, experienced aquarists only rarely measure the water values - especially after major changes in the tank or when problems occur.

How do I prevent too much nitrite from forming in the aquarium?

The best preventive measure is lush, healthy planting. If you offer the plants good growing conditions, they will absorb the nitrite from the water and convert it into plant matter. Another plus is that the increased oxygen production also supports the growth of beneficial bacteria.

If there is too much nitrate in the aquarium, fast-growing aquarium plants can also be used for a short time. Once the values have stabilized, they can be gradually removed from the tank and replaced with other aquarium plants.

Is nitrate bad for fish?

Nitrate concentrations of more than 100 mg/l are harmful to fish in the long term. Above a certain concentration, there is an acute risk of reduction to nitrite. This can lead to an increased incidence of diseases. It also inhibits the growth of the fish and often causes problems in breeding.

Is nitrate bad for shrimp?

If the nitrate level in the shrimp aquarium is too high, this can cause molting problems in the shrimp. Too much nitrate in the aquarium inhibits the absorption of iodine, which the animals need to produce moulting hormones.

A value of up to 25 mg/l is considered appropriate, high breeds are kept at a maximum nitrate value of 15mg/l.

Is nitrate harmful to aquatic plants?

No, on the contrary. Nitrate is very important for plant growth because it is their source of nitrogen. However, if the nitrate level in the aquarium is too high, problems can arise that also affect the plants – which can promote algae in the aquarium, for example. With a nitrate content of more than 25 mg/l, reddish plants can lose their color and develop green leaves.

Do you have further questions about nitrite in the aquarium? We look forward to your suggestions and comments!

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Technology September 29, 2022

Nature Aquarium – Setup And Layout

A natural aquarium is a special eye-catcher and makes the hearts of many aquarists beat faster. Anyone considering setting up a natural aquarium should not miss this article: Here you can find out exactly what a natural aquarium is, how you set it up, which aquarium plants are suitable and how it differs from other types of aquarium design.

What is a nature aquarium?

In the natural aquarium, the impression of a natural scenery is created without replicating it in detail. Plants, roots and stones create an overall picture in which the viewer can lose himself, just like in nature. There is room for playing with structures, contrasts, colours, shapes, light and shadow. Natural elements such as roots or stones are used for decoration. The main focus of the natural aquarium is on the planting.

Typical for a natural aquarium

Plants play the leading role
Lots of free space
Plain rear panel (single color film)
Natural decoration materials
Play with light and shadow

Natural aquarium and other aquarium types in comparison

Biotope aquarium

The term natural aquarium is often equated with biotope aquarium. However, the natural aquarium is about creating a natural scenery. A biotope aquarium, on the other hand, is a tank in which the natural habitat of an animal species is faithfully reproduced. A biotope aquarium can replicate the underwater world of Lake Malawi in Africa, or a South American mangrove area. From the selection of the plants to the substrate, the decorative materials and other furnishings such as leaves lying on the floor, everything in the biotope aquarium is adapted to this. Of course, the water values and other environmental parameters are also included – just like the right stocking.

Japanese natural aquarium according to Takashi Amano

A name that usually comes up in connection with the topic of nature aquariums is Takashi Amano. The Japanese has decisively shaped the aquarium scene and is not only considered the father of natural aquariums, but also of the aquascaping scene, which later developed from it. His cymbal layouts became groundbreaking. The terms Japanese aquarium or Japanese natural aquarium have therefore also become commonplace for the term natural aquarium.

Aquascape

Designing a natural aquarium is closely related to aquascaping. However, it is not the same thing. The term aquascaping is short for “acquatic landscaping”, which means something like “designing underwater landscapes”. Here landscapes from nature (above water) are reproduced. This can be a mountain landscape, a steppe, a hilly landscape covered with vegetation and much more. In aquascaping, mountains, hills, trees or entire forests are often created underwater in miniature format, which is less common in natural aquariums.

In the natural aquarium, on the other hand, there are no detailed “imitations”. It’s more about giving the impression of naturalness, drawing the viewer into the landscape and inviting him, like in nature, to let his gaze wander freely. Anyone who looks at the aquarium, for example, gets the impression of a wild thicket like in a forest – but without individual trees being reproduced as in aquascaping.

Naturaquarium

Impression of naturalness, rather low degree of realism — the overall impression is decisive. The viewer can freely interpret the landscape.

Aquascaping

High degree of realism, individual landscape elements are reworked in detail.

In a Dutch aquarium or Holland aquarium, plants play the main role – just like in a natural aquarium. However, the plants are used here in such a way that clear structures are formed, comparable to flower beds in the garden. The Holland Aquarium works with color contrasts and leaf structures, with geometric shapes such as lines or triangles.

In contrast to natural aquariums, Holland aquariums appear more structured and well planned when compared to a natural aquarium. Which design principle is preferred depends of course on your own preferences and individual taste.

Which plants for the natural aquarium?

One thing is clear: plants play the main role in the natural aquarium. But which plants are particularly suitable for planting in a natural aquarium?

Choosing the right plants for the natural aquarium

Of course, choosing the right plants depends on your own taste. However, there are some aquarium plants that are particularly suitable for setting up a natural aquarium because of their growth habit or other properties. Because it is by no means a question of simply using aquarium plants and letting them grow wild, as in nature. It is planned very precisely how natural scenes can be created with a selection of plants. How detailed you want to proceed is entirely up to you. Or maybe you just let yourself be inspired by some beautiful nature aquarium layouts for the design of your aquarium.

Nature Aquarium: Plants for the foreground

Plants that form a lawn in the aquarium are popular for the foreground in the natural aquarium. Depending on the size of the aquarium, grassy aquarium plants, such as New Zealand grass, form focal points for the eye or provide ground cover for the foreground and side areas of the tank. Lawn-forming aquarium plants also have the advantage of providing support for a mound structure in the aquarium when they root through the soil. Glossostigma is one of the aquatic plants that are used particularly frequently in natural aquariums. Overall, you have a wide selection of foreground plants for the aquarium.

Nature Aquarium: Plants for the middle ground

Which plants are suitable for the middle ground in a natural aquarium depends on various factors. Consider:

Planned pelvic layout: Should the central pelvic area have a generous amount of free space? Are you planning a “plant island” as an eye-catcher in the middle of the pool? Are roots or larger stone structures planned? Depending on how you answer these questions, you should choose background plants, pretty midground plants or epiphytes.
Aquarium Size: Find out what size the mature plants will be. Of course, completely different aquarium plants are suitable for the middle ground in a nano aquarium than for the middle area in a tank that holds several hundred liters.
Type of planting or attachment: should the plants be planted directly in the substrate, or would you like to attach epiphytes?

Nature aquarium: plants for the background

In many natural aquariums, the background is not planted. Instead, tall plants are used on the side or in the center of the pool. There are various reasons for this:

Optical depth: The impression of optical depth plays an important role in the natural aquarium. Therefore, a decorative or planted rear wall is not used. A black or milky film is usually used. Aquarium plants in the background of the tank can disturb the impression of depth. In the lateral areas, however, they are in very good hands.
Points of focus in the tank: In the natural aquarium there is often a focal point to which the observer’s gaze is drawn. Dense planting in the background would disturb this impression. However, background plants are ideal for creating this focal point – for example as a green island of plants in the middle of the aquarium.

Natural aquarium: Epiphytes

Epiphytes are a real must in a natural aquarium. They are the first choice to reinforce the natural impression. You should definitely green roots and stones with epiphytic plants in your natural aquarium if this suits your planned tank layout. This way, the decorative objects immediately appear much more lifelike. Just think of the difference between a root with and without moss planting.

We can particularly recommend moss for the aquarium: it gives the design filigree details. Moss for the aquarium is also ideal for greening stones, roots or even the substrate. Beautiful layouts can also be created with other classic epiphytes, such as Java fern or Anubias.

Tip: You can find out how to attach epiphytes in our article here on the blog.

We hope you enjoy choosing the right plants for the natural aquarium!

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Pets September 29, 2022

Black Algae: Black Algae In The Aquarium

Anyone who discovers black algae in their aquarium should act quickly. What is often referred to as “black algae” is actually a representative of the red algae. Read here how to correctly identify algae and what you can do to get rid of the nuisance.

Black algae – definition and designation

Throughout this article, we will use the term black algae – even if this is actually not biologically correct: there is no such thing as black algae. If you discover black algae in your aquarium, you are likely to have a representative of the red algae in front of you. They often look black and are therefore often referred to as black algae. We know two representatives of the red algae from the aquarium: the brush algae and the beard algae.

Where do black algae occur?

Black algae are mainly found on furnishings and decorative objects in the aquarium. They sit on stones, roots or on the aquarium technology. They also settle on the edges of the leaves of aquarium plants. Slow-growing plants are particularly often affected.

Correct identification of black algae: Which algae do I have in front of me?

Even for experts, it is not always easy to tell apart types of algae. A black alga can be a red alga. But in rare cases even filamentous algae look almost black. There is sometimes confusion here. It is even more difficult to distinguish between the two types of red algae, which black algae can belong to. See the table below for help.

Black algae are usually black or blackish in color: the shades range from deep black to gray to dark green. So it’s difficult to tell them apart by color.
A surefire way to identify black algae as red algae is to soak them in high-proof alcohol. The algae change color after a while and become red.

Black Algae: Determination

Black Algae: Brush Algae?

Brush algae usually form dark, dense clumps. Like the bristles of a soft brush, they look rather delicate and supple.

The length of the “brush bristles” reaches up to about two centimeters in length.

The outgrowths of this black algae do not branch.

Black Algae: Beard Algae?

The growth form of the beard algae is characterized by thicker, curly “hairs” that are less dense than those of the brush algae.

Beard algae reach a significantly greater length than other black algae. Around ten centimeters are not uncommon.

This alga partially branches.

How can I remove black algae?

In order to quickly get rid of the unloved guests, you need to use a few simple measures against black algae.

Identify the black alga: is it a beard alga or a brush alga?
Find out exactly what type of algae you are dealing with so that you can take action. In our blog you will find more information about both species (brush algae and beard algae) and other types of algae in the aquarium.

Take measures to remove algae. Manual removal of the black algae also plays an important role here. With these species, however, a particularly thorough procedure is necessary. You can read in detail how to remove red algae from the aquarium in our article on the subject.
Ensure that the conditions in your aquarium allow optimal plant growth. General tips for preventing and combating algae in the aquarium and a checklist for caring for aquarium plants can be found here in the blog. Don’t give the black algae a chance to appear again with a dense and healthy growth of aquarium plants.
We wish you every success in combating black algae!

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Pets September 29, 2022

Water Change In The Aquarium

How often does the water in the aquarium need to be changed? What should I watch out for when changing the water? Which conditioners do I have to use? Questions like these are often asked, especially by beginners. If you have a little experience in aquaristics, you will soon find the right method for changing the water for your aquarium – our tips give you a start and answer the most important questions on the subject.

Why do I need to change the water in the aquarium?

Many beginners ask themselves: Why do I have to change the water in the aquarium at all? Doesn’t the filter keep it clean enough? That’s not quite right: The filter serves to filter particles out of the water that make it cloudy. This keeps the aquarium water crystal clear. Above all, however, it has the function of biological filtration: nitrifying bacteria settle on the filter material. They ensure that the water quality is maintained. If you would like to know more about how this works, read more about the nitrogen cycle in our article Nitrate in the aquarium.

In addition to regular water changes in the aquarium, dense and healthy planting is essential for good water quality and stable water parameters.

Better water quality in the aquarium: fast-growing plants

Fast-growing aquarium plants are particularly well suited to maintaining the water quality between water changes in the aquarium: they absorb excess nutrients from the water. This significantly reduces the risk of an algae plague in the aquarium – even if you don’t manage to change the aquarium water in time.

For example, Egeria densa, the waterweed, whose German trade name already indicates its growth characteristics, is unbeatable when it comes to growth. Hardly any aquarium plant is as easy to care for and as fast-growing as it is.

Discover more fast-growing aquarium plants in our Fast-growing aquarium plants article or browse our aquarium plant shop!

However, the plants in the aquarium cannot keep the biological cycle going on their own. Regular water changes are necessary to B. Remove nutrients and debris that accumulate from the aquarium. Therefore, even in a lushly planted aquarium, the water must be partially replaced at regular intervals.

Water change in the aquarium: how often is it necessary?

A rule of thumb is: the water in the aquarium should be changed about every 14 days. This rule applies to a normal community aquarium. Of course, completely different intervals are conceivable for special tanks, such as rearing facilities. Some aquarists also swear by doing weekly water changes in smaller amounts.

Tip: Changing the water can easily be combined with caring for the plants in the aquarium.

Basic rule: It is better to change a small amount of water in the aquarium more often than a large amount of water infrequently. The larger the tank, the more stable the water values and the more likely it is that a water change will be “forgiven” – since the biological balance in large aquaria shakes less quickly.

How much water should I change in the freshwater aquarium?

You should change about a good third of the water in the aquarium. If you change too much water, there will quickly be an imbalance in the aquarium – the values change too suddenly. Depending on the water parameters, this can have serious consequences. Animals and plants suffer from the sudden change in conditions.

A large water change of half or more of the tank volume is only carried out in emergencies: if the water is contaminated with germs, to combat algae in the aquarium or to quickly remove toxins from the water – for example if shrimp suddenly die in the aquarium. This is a rather drastic measure that you should only take if it is really necessary.

Water change in the aquarium: step by step

Regular water changes quickly become a routine part of regular aquarium maintenance.

Water change – what you need:

Hose for sucking off the aquarium water
Mulm bell for cleaning the aquarium floor (if required)
Buckets for collecting and transporting the water
Disc magnet or scraper for cleaning the aquarium glass
Rag or towel for spilled water

Preparation

Prepare all the utensils you need. Since water changes are rarely drip-free, we advise you to have a rag or an old towel handy. This is how you avoid water stains on the base cabinet. Now switch off the aquarium technology. Above all, the filter and the heater, which are under water, should be switched off before reaching into the aquarium. A defect can otherwise result in a dangerous electric shock.

Clean the aquarium panes

The water change is usually combined with cleaning the aquarium and the panes – these are first freed from algae with a suitable accessory. A light coating of green algae on the aquarium pane is normal. Regular cleaning ensures a good view of the tank, the aquarium plants and of course the inhabitants such as fish or invertebrates.

Water change with mud bell (optional)

If you use a mulch bell, you can clean the bottom of the aquarium particularly easily: changing the water and cleaning is done in one step. If you want to leave the sludge corners in your aquarium floor – for example in an aquarium for shrimps – it is sufficient if you remove coarse dirt and dead plant parts with a net or aquarium tweezers.

Water change with the hose

If you change the water in the aquarium using the hose (with or without a mulch bell), proceed as follows: The bucket is provided – make sure that it is lower than the water level in the aquarium. Then insert one end of the hose into the pool. Now suck the air out of the hose with your mouth briefly. The water starts to flow into the hose. Now you can easily let it run into the bucket. Surely every aquarist has accidentally taken a sip of aquarium water at some point, but you will soon find out the trick.

Tip: Use a light-colored bucket. It quickly happens that a fish or a shrimp is sucked up unnoticed. A scrutinizing look into the bucket prevents the worst when disposing of the old water.

Fill the aquarium with fresh water

The fresh tap water should definitely have the same temperature as the water in the aquarium. A slight deviation of one to two degrees is fine. Place the water in the bucket, condition it if desired, and slowly pour it into the aquarium. A small plate on the ground prevents it from being whirled up.

Which water do I use for changing the water in the aquarium?

For a normal community aquarium, the aquarium water is replaced with normal tap water. This is mixed with water conditioners and fertilizer for the aquarium as required. If you have water in your region that is very hard, or if you care for animals or plants with special requirements, you may have to treat it using other methods, such as an osmosis system. However, this is a topic for advanced aquarium owners. This is usually not necessary for an ordinary community tank.

We hope that with our tips on changing the water in the aquarium we have been able to give you a little help for the fascinating hobby of aquaristics. Have questions or comments? We look forward to your comment!

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Pets September 29, 2022

Floating Algae / Algal Bloom: Green Water In The Aquarium

Floating algae can be recognized by the typical green coloring of the water in the aquarium. It is also called an algal bloom. Read here how this type of algae develops, where the cause of algae growth lies and what you need to know to combat floating algae.

Green water in the aquarium: What are floating layers?

The algae bloom in the aquarium is unmistakably recognizable by the green water in the aquarium. Sometimes a whitish cloudiness appears first. Floating algae are tiny, microscopically small algae that can completely obstruct the view in the aquarium after a short time. They float freely in the aquarium water and do not settle on aquarium plants, panes or the hardscape. In natural waters, floating algae form the phytoplanton, which is a food source for all filtering animals (e.g. mussels or certain shrimp).

Floating Algae: Causes for the occurrence of an algal bloom in the aquarium

Sudden fluctuations

Floating algae usually appear when there are strong, sudden changes in the conditions in the aquarium. This can be the case, above all, if the temperature rises significantly or there is intense solar radiation. This situation can arise when the aquarium is in the sun due to the change of seasons. If you set up your pool in autumn or winter, you may find that the sun is different in summer and reaches the pool. If this is the case, there is a need for action: An aquarium should never be exposed to direct sunlight – because this also promotes the growth of other types of algae such as filamentous algae, red algae or blue-green algae.

Imbalance in the nutrient situation

If regular water changes are neglected, certain nutrients can accumulate in the water while others are no longer available in sufficient quantities. Good care of the aquarium with a partial water change every one to two weeks (depending on the size of the aquarium) and proper fertilization of the aquarium plants helps to prevent floating algae. As with all types of algae in the aquarium, prevention is better than cure. A checklist for plant care in the aquarium can be found here in our blog — as well as tips for changing the water in the aquarium.

Algae bloom during the start-up phase of the aquarium

Algal blooms can also occur when the aquarium is in the running-in phase, if an ecological balance has not yet been established after setup. During this time, in addition to the development of harmless brown algae, an infestation with floating algae or an algal bloom can also occur. We advise you to select some fast-growing aquarium plants when setting up a new aquarium, so that algae don’t stand a chance from the start.

Fast-growing aquarium plant – Brazilian Pennywort

A very undemanding and fast-growing stem plant is the Brazilian pennywort Hydrocotyle leucocephala. It grows very quickly in the aquarium and is highly recommended for beginners. As soon as the shoots have reached the water surface, they continue to grow in a flooding manner.

Fighting floating algae: Measures against algal blooms

Use UVC clarifiers to combat floating algae

How can the algal bloom in the aquarium be combated? A UVC clarifier can help. The water is passed through the UVC sterilizer and kills the algae and their spores. The device is also helpful for other types of algae, such as brush algae. It ensures clear and germ-free water. The aquarium water is pumped through a bell containing a UVC lamp. This light kills the spores of floating algae and other types of algae.

Water fleas against algal blooms

Unfortunately, normal algae eaters in the aquarium fail with floating algae – the particles are too small to be eaten. However, water fleas are a good biological method of combating floating algae. As natural “enemies” they consume the tiny algae particles and thus ensure algae-free water. However, they are quickly eaten by fish kept in the aquarium.

Dark treatment against floating algae

A dark cure can also work against floating algae. Plants are better able to cope with the deprivation of light than algae, which is why this method is often used successfully when there is an algal bloom. Follow these steps:

Cover the aquarium so that no more light enters. Provide extra ventilation during this time and feed as sparingly as possible. Turn off the CO2 supply.
First carry out a water change to remove as many floating algae as possible from the aquarium.
The dark cure against floating algae can last up to two weeks. During this time you should observe the aquarium every few days to make sure that the inhabitants and plants in the aquarium are doing well and that the algae are reducing.
After the dark cure, a generous water change is carried out.

Basically, you should ensure that the causes of algae growth are eliminated. Because the measure only removes existing algae – and does not solve the original problem. You can also find more tips on how to combat algae in the aquarium here in the blog.

What are your experiences with floating algae or an algal bloom in the aquarium? Have you ever had green water in your aquarium? We look forward to your tips and comments!

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Technology September 29, 2022

Setting Up An Aquarium For Beginners: Instructions

Newcomers who want to set up an aquarium should first do some thorough research before getting started. In this article, we clarify the most important questions that arise when you design an aquarium and want to equip it with fish and plants. Don’t miss out on these tips for redesigning – maybe even experienced aquaristics fans can learn a thing or two for the redesign.

Redesign the aquarium: Which fish do I want to keep in the aquarium as a beginner?

A lot depends on this question: the size of the tank, the set-up of the aquarium, the aquarium technology and the choice of plants depend primarily on the stock, i.e. the animals that are to be cared for.

Community aquarium or species tank?

Getting started with aquaristics is usually done with a freshwater aquarium. For aquaristic beginners, the first choice is usually a community aquarium. In this, various less undemanding animal species such as ornamental fish or snails can be kept together in fresh water. A species tank with an animal species that does not need exceptional water values is also a good choice. It is advisable to plan some algae eaters for the aquarium, as they will eat up any algae growth in the aquarium water right from the start.

What do I have to pay attention to when planning the aquarium for beginners?

Find out what water values the tap water has in your region. The most important parameters to be guided by are the pH and hardness of the water.
Select fish for the aquarium that feel comfortable in this water. The values can still be easily adjusted in the aquarium, but aquaristic beginners usually lack the necessary know-how.
In addition to the tank size and other parameters such as flow and lighting, the water values in the beginner’s aquarium form the most important basis for the selection of plants for the aquarium.

How big should an aquarium for beginners be?

The aquarium for beginners should not be too small: the larger the tank, the more stable the water parameters. Beginner’s mistakes are not as important here as in a small aquarium. Unfortunately, the nano aquariums, which have been so popular for a number of years, are often marketed to beginners. Designing such a small aquarium requires a lot of experience. Otherwise, an imbalance can quickly lead to algae in the aquarium or even to consequences for animals and plants. However, your well-being is always the priority for responsible aquarists.

If you would like to keep a lot of fish, you should definitely design a larger aquarium. The rule of thumb is one to two liters of water per centimeter of body length of the fish. Animals that need a lot of swimming space sometimes even need more space in the aquarium.

A beginner’s aquarium should not be chosen below the standard dimensions of 60 x 30 (54 liters tank capacity) – this is the absolute minimum for beginners. The bigger the pool, the better. You can often find inexpensive starter sets in stores that already contain technology such as filters and lighting. You can buy an aquarium plant set that is adapted to the tank size. A suitable base cabinet is also practical here, in which all utensils and accessories can disappear.

What technology do I need for my first aquarium?

You need a filter that is adapted to the size of the pool.
A high-quality fluorescent tube is essential for good plant growth.
If you want to care for tropical fish and aquarium plants, you need a heater.
When choosing the technique for the beginner’s aquarium, make sure that it is adapted to the size and type of tank. If you want to set up an aquarium for shrimp, the filter must be shrimp-proof, for example. Fish that love currents need an appropriate filter system. The light color and intensity of the fluorescent tube should be based on the needs of the plants in the aquarium and make the colors of the fish shine. If in doubt, seek advice from a specialist dealer or use specialist literature to find out tips on aquarium design.

What plants fit in an aquarium for beginners?

Once you know what fish you want to keep, it’s time to start planning the setup. An interesting overall picture of the aquarium is usually quite easy, even for beginners who are setting up an aquarium for the first time. There are only a few basic rules to follow. With a little practice, dreamlike underwater landscapes emerge. Our article on tank layout in the aquarium gives you some tips for setting up landscapes in the water and other ideas for aquarium design.

These areas exist when designing an aquarium

Basically, the aquarium is divided into three areas:

foreground
middle ground
background

As a simple rule of thumb: low plants are used to create underwater landscapes, while taller aquarium plants are placed further back in the tank. Some interesting focal points are set by individual particularly pretty or eye-catching specimens – one speaks here of solitair plants. In most aquarium plant shops on the Internet or in specialist shops, the plants on offer are divided up in this way for easy orientation.

This takes you to the relevant departments in our shop. Browse through the categories and get an impression of the respective aquarium plant species:

foreground plants
midground plants
background plants
floating plants

Designing an aquarium: ideas for substrate, hardscape and plants

If you want to redesign your aquarium, in addition to creating a livable space for the fish, the goal is above all a beautiful appearance. The following tips show beginners and advanced aquarists how to design their aquarium.

Designing an aquarium: Tips for substrate

The substrate in the aquarium is the habitat for the animals in the water, ensures the supply of nutrients and gives the plants a secure footing. Ideally, build it up from two layers:

Start with the nutrient soil, which releases the most important nutrients into the aquarium water over the long term.
This is followed by the layer of gravel in which the plants take root.
The substrate in the aquarium for beginners usually consists of medium-grain gravel. Most aquarium plants feel comfortable in this. To create optical depth, pour it higher on the back wall than in front. When buying, make sure that the gravel is rounded. This is especially important if you want to keep bottom fish in the water. You can also design your aquarium with sand. However, since particles are quickly deposited in it, which can lead to inclusions of rot, you should use them sparingly.

Hardscape: Create an aquarium with stones and roots

Decorative objects such as stones and roots form the so-called hardscape, the “fixed” facility in the tank. It depends on your taste and the trimming, whether it should only be a few decorative elements or whether you want to create entire stone landscapes, for example. Based on the created landscapes, select the plants for the entry-level aquarium.

Designing the aquarium background: get creative!

The optically most attractive solution for the rear wall of the aquarium is the so-called structured rear wall. It gives the aquarium a natural atmosphere and can be made of different materials, such as granite, slate or quartz. The simpler alternative is a printed backing film, whether monochrome, with a sea ambience or complete landscapes.

Tip: A back wall is a great help for the fish. It helps them to orientate themselves in the water and avoids stress.

What do I have to consider when choosing plants as a beginner?

Needs of plants

Does the plant feel comfortable with the water parameters?

Does she receive light according to her needs?
Are the roots getting enough nutrients for healthy growth?
Does the growth height and shape correspond to the tank size and layout?

Some plants are very demanding. They need a lot of light or heavy fertilization with CO2. Undemanding aquarium plants thrive in almost every tank and forgive minor mistakes in the aquarium.

Needs of animals

What kind of planting does the animal species need? (Thickets to hide, large-leaved plants to scrape off when foraging, plenty of free swimming space to move, a floating plant cover as protection against threats, spawning grounds, …)

Do the stocking tend to eat aquarium plants?

All animals have special wishes for their environment – which differ significantly. If you want to set up an aquarium for shrimp, you choose completely different plants than in an aquarium for perch.

Choosing plants for the aquarium is great fun. Most of the time it is not that easy to decide between the many beautiful species. Especially at the beginning, we recommend that you use fast-growing aquarium plants for the design of aquariums. They absorb excess nutrients from the water via their roots, prevent algae from spreading in the water in the initial phase and forgive one or the other maintenance mistake in the aquarium for beginners. Slower-growing species such as cryptocorynes or anubias, like mosses for aquariums, are of particular interest once the tank has been run in. The more experience the new aquarium owner gains, the more demanding the plants and animals in the aquarium can be.

We wish you a lot of fun designing your aquarium with stones, setting up extraordinary landscapes and gaining your first experience in aquaristics!

We hope you enjoy planning and setting up the aquarium for beginners!

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Technology September 29, 2022

Aquarium Plants From Online Trade: Tips And Things Worth Knowing

Are you one of those people who are unsure whether to buy aquarium plants online? Then we recommend this article to you. Many shy away from it – but mostly wrongly. Buying from a good online retailer is often better than buying from a local retailer. You can find out here why this is the case and where the advantages of aquarium plants from online shops lie.

The display tank in the pet shop: a difficult environment for plants

Aquarium plants are bought in large numbers in the pet or aquarium trade and are then often left in the display tank for days or even weeks. There they are good for buyers to see, but they do not find good conditions. That drains their strength. Instead of continuing to grow and thrive, the aquatic plants here are simply surviving. Even expensive plants from well-known nurseries such as plants from Dennerle or aquatic plants from Tropica no longer have the desired quality after a longer period of time.

If the plants finally get to their new owner in the aquarium after staying in the display tank, they often lack the necessary energy to survive the adjustment unscathed. This is why some aquarium plants grow poorly or even die after they have been planted. That doesn’t happen with strong, healthy aquatic plants that didn’t have to survive a long “stopover”.

When you buy plants from the pet store, look out for signs of weakened or diseased plants, including the following. If you find these, you should rather use other specimens:

discoloration of the leaves
Dark or light spots
holes in the leaves
Blackish or brownish leaf margins

From the shopping cart to your home: strong and healthy plants for the aquarium

If the aquatic plants are allowed to continue growing in the nursery or at the retailer in large tanks or greenhouses under optimal conditions, you will notice the difference immediately. The sooner they land in their “new home”, i.e. in your aquarium at home, the better it is for them. Online retailers often have better options for this than, for example, the aquarium department of a pet shop.

If you put them in the shopping cart, dealers will pack the plants for you with love and expertise. You can then get home as quickly as possible. If you put the new plants in your aquarium, you can look forward to strong plants. They often cut a better figure in their new environment than their pet store counterparts. Customers often even save money compared to the pet shop – not only because they do not have to buy twice, but also because aquarium plants from online shops can often be offered cheaper.

Professional aquarium plant shipping is the be-all and end-all

Many customers are unsettled because plants are shipped without water. Doesn’t that hurt them? The answer is very clear: no. Many aquarium plants are emersed, i.e. cultivated above water. And the same applies in other respects: Properly packaged aquarium plants usually survive the shipping route without any problems. The only important thing is that they are kept moist. Good packaging must also be used to avoid pressure points or kinks.

When retailers ship aquarium plants in winter, they use insulating styrofoam boxes and heat packs to prevent damage. If you would like to buy aquarium plants online, you should find out in advance how the online retailer packs the plants.

From the online retailer to the tank – the journey of the aquarium plant

Before aquarium plants are sold online, they are cultivated and cared for in a nursery.
The online retailer buys the aquarium plants and keeps them in their own tanks. The better these are equipped, the better the quality of the plants.
When customers buy plants for the aquarium online, the retailer takes them out of the tank and prepares them to be sent in the mail.
The plants are now well protected in the package on their way to the end customer.
As the last stop on their journey, the aquatic plants reach their new home: the customer’s pool, where they are eagerly awaited.

Large selection in the online shop for aquarium plants

A final advantage that you as a buyer enjoy when you buy aquarium plants online is the wide choice. Be sure to buy from a shop that either specializes in aquarium plants or has a wide range in this area. If the plants are only a side business, you can unfortunately often see this in the quality. The necessary resources are simply not available.

Lovers of rarities should also have a look online to see if they can buy the specimen they are looking for cheaply in an online shop for aquarium plants. You will certainly be surprised what can be found!

We wish you every success in selecting and purchasing aquarium plants from online retailers! Do you have any questions or suggestions on the subject? We welcome comments!

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Technology September 29, 2022

Biotope South America: Set Up A Natural Aquarium

The South America natural aquarium is one of the most popular landscape aquariums. No wonder: the variety of shapes and colors in these biotopes is huge, their exotic charisma unique. Some of the most popular aquarium plants and fish come from South America. Find inspiration for setting up a South American-style aquarium here.

The South American biotope as a model

South American biotopes serve as a model for the design of the natural aquarium. There is no such thing as “the” South American tank, but a natural aquarium with a South American theme can reproduce various biotopes:

Amazon
Rio Xingu
Orinoco
rainforest pond

The most famous river in South America is the Amazon. But its tributaries also offer interesting templates for a South American natural aquarium. A small jungle river can be the theme of the natural aquarium, but also an overgrown rain forest pond that was created by a flood. A lot of precipitation falls in the humid rainforest, which collects in small ponds. In the humid climate they remain for a long time and offer a home to many animals and plants.

Planning the biotope aquarium South America

Discover your favorite biotope

Take a closer look at the fish and plants found in South America: is there a specific type of fish or plant that particularly fascinates you? Or do you already have a specific biotope in mind that you would like to reproduce in your aquarium? Find one of these starting points and plan your South American basin accordingly.

For example, is it the discus that appeals to you? Then find out about the environment in which it lives and which plants are suitable for discus aquariums.
Are you dreaming of the underwater landscapes of the Orinoco? Then look for suitable aquarium plants for this biotope, which is home to L‑type catfish and the popular angelfish, for example.

Select specific animal species and aquarium plants

Now make a very specific decision about the animal and plant species that you want to keep in your South American tank. The tank size depends on this, as does the necessary hardscape and decorative materials that you bring into the aquarium: roots, stones and substrate.

The variety of shapes and colors with their exotic charisma is typical for a South American landscape pool. You can let your creativity run free: Do you want branched root landscapes? Or do you want decorative stones to be the focus? Maybe it’s also the plants that are supposed to dominate the South America aquarium growing wildly.

Fish for the South America aquarium

Over 2000 species of fish are at home in South America. Many of the most famous aquarium fish come from here. These include guppy (Poecilia reticulata), neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi), mourning cloak tetra (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) and lemon tetra (Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis). But also the scalar (Pterophyllum scalare) or the discus (Symphysodon). Popular catfish species such as armored catfish (Corydoras), witch catfish (Rineloricaria fallax) or antennae catfish (Ancistrus spec.) are at home in South America. The dwarf cichlids (Apistogramma) and other perch species such as chestnut cichlids (Cleithracara maronii), emerald cichlids (Hypselecara temporalis) or the red-breasted cichlids (Laetacara dorsigera) are also fascinating to keep, to name but a few examples. Depending on which species is to be kept in the South America aquarium, the corresponding biotope also looks different.

Aquarium plants from South America

Plants do not play the leading role in every South American biotope. A discus aquarium, for example, can even do without aquarium plants in case of doubt. However, aquariums without plants are not always easy to maintain and are more susceptible to algae in the aquarium. Landscape aquariums in which many aquatic plants from South America are combined have a particularly exotic look.

The right plants for the South America natural aquarium are easy to find: there is a large selection in specialist aquarium plant shops. The most popular representatives for the South American basin include, among many others, the following aquatic plants:

Large-leaved Echinodorus are among the typical plants for the South America aquarium. Their large leaves give the pool a rustic look. There are also many suitable varieties for large aquariums.

The American Pennywort is at home in the crystal clear shallow waters of Brazil. Its interesting growth habit and pretty umbrellas make it a versatile aquarium plant.

Indispensable in aquaristics: the parrot leaf Alternanthera reineckii with its red leaves. It looks particularly good in combination with other plants and creates enchanting contrasts.

A suitable floating plant for the South American natural aquarium is, for example, the South American frog bite. A plant cover shades the pool and can emphasize the mysterious radiance of the underwater landscape.

Set up a South America aquarium according to your own taste

It goes without saying that it is up to you whether you strictly only want to keep plants in your South America natural aquarium that come from the corresponding biotope, or whether you are not very strict with the natural aquarium biologically. In the end, what counts is that you like the tank and that you capture the enchanting flair of the biotope with its special charisma – even if one or the other aquarium plant has “smuggled in” from another region. For a quick search for aquarium plants from South America, use a plant encyclopedia, get advice in a specialist shop or use the filter function in an online shop. We hope you enjoy designing your South American tank!

Do you have any questions or comments about “Natural Aquarium South America”? We appreciate your comments!

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Pets September 29, 2022

What Is Point Algae And Its Types?

Spot algae in the aquarium are among the most common types of algae. They can be seen somewhere in almost every aquarium. Green spot algae are often found on the aquarium pane, on decorative objects or on slow-growing aquarium plants. You can read the most important questions and answers about spot algae in the aquarium in this article.

The dot algae – what is that?

The spot alga is a form of the rather harmless green alga. Here it is assigned to the genus Coleochaete. The dot alga is also called shield alga. In the aquarium it occurs in the form of hard, punctiform deposits. It loves a bright environment and often occurs when CO2 and phosphate levels are low.

Are spot algae harmful to aquarium plants?

A few smaller green dots on the aquarium plants will not harm them. However, if there is an increased occurrence of spot algae, this can have a negative effect on the plants: they receive too little light under the algae layer to thrive. Unfortunately, the punctiform deposits on aquarium plants cannot usually be removed. Carry out the measures below to combat spot algae in good time. In this way, the aquarium plants will not be damaged.

How do I recognize spot algae? How do I distinguish them from other types of algae?

Spot algae can be easily identified by their shape and color. It forms small, solid, hard green spots on the aquarium pane, on objects or on slow-growing plants such as the java fern.

If green spot algae have spread widely in the aquarium, they can cover larger areas. Nevertheless, the dot algae or shield algae can be easily distinguished from other green deposits in the aquarium – these are formed, for example, by other green algae such as dust algae.

Which animals eat spot algae?

Algae eaters in the aquarium do a good job against green algae. In order to combat spot algae, snails in particular are recommended for the aquarium. They tirelessly rattle the spot algae deposits off windows and hardscape. Unfortunately, popular snail species such as the snail or the antler snail prefer soft algae coverings. Since there are usually enough of these in the aquarium, algae eaters are only a limited solution against spot algae because they only eat them last.

What is the trigger for green spot algae in the aquarium?

Green dots on the pane of the aquarium, which only appear sporadically, do not have to have a special cause. On the contrary, they occur even with perfect water parameters. How can that be? As is usually the case with green algae: the cause of spot algae is usually an imbalance in the nutrients in the aquarium. Basically, algae need the same nutrients as aquarium plants. However, they are more undemanding and can tolerate an imbalance much easier. You can find out more about these connections in our article Algae in the aquarium.

Is the spot algae a sign of bad water parameters?

No, quite the opposite: spotted algae tend to indicate good general water values - in contrast to other types of algae, such as blue-green algae or diatoms, which can be a sign of poor water quality.

Remove spot algae – step by step

Identify the alga. Is it really spot algae, or is there another green alga?
Remove annoying green algae deposits on the aquarium pane with a blade. Razor blade holders do an excellent job at this.
Go in search of the causes of the formation of the algae. Test water parameters such as phosphate and nitrate. Check whether the environmental parameters allow for optimal plant growth.

The most important measures to combat spot algae are:

manual removal of spot algae
create optimal water values
use fast-growing plants

If the aquarium is stocked with fast-growing aquarium plants, the spot algae have strong competition. They should not spread excessively in such a tank. This rule applies in principle to combating algae in the aquarium: the more stable the ecosystem in the aquarium, the fewer chances algae have of spreading.

Our tip against spot algae on slow-growing plants:

Position slow-growing plants in shadier areas.

With these tips and simple measures, you should be able to get the spread of spot algae under control in the long term without any problems. What experiences have you had with spot algae in the aquarium? We appreciate your comments!

What are spot algae?

Aquarists usually refer to green, flat algae coverings that are very firmly attached as spot algae. At the beginning they grow very selectively and look like small round spots. Over time and under the right conditions, spot algae can also spread over a large area.

Which animals eat spot algae?

Which animals eat dust algae, spot algae and other green algae deposits? Course snails, antler snails and other aquarium snails, but also shrimp and growth-eating fish like to feed on the softer green algae coverings. Spot algae, on the other hand, are so hard that they can hardly be eaten.

What types of algae are there in the aquarium?

Green algae (thread algae, spot algae, floating algae, hair algae, …)
Red algae (brush algae, beard algae)
Brown algae (diatoms)
blue-green algae

What to do against spot algae?

The best way to remove spot algae is with a window cleaner with a blade or with a used plastic card (credit card, customer card or similar). Spot algae are particularly fond of infesting slow-growing plants such as Anubias, but they can also be found on other plants in the event of severe nutrient deficiencies.

Is CO2 good against algae?

And that is exactly why aquarium plants and algae are food competitors. When the plants grow well, the algae have little food left and they take care of themselves. CO2 fertilization promotes the growth of the plants and thus gives the algae no chance!

What Light Kills Algae?

The UV-C lamp kills algae and other organisms in your pond as the radiation is absorbed by the DNA of these organisms. The DNA is destroyed in the process. This radiation is helpful for floating algae, which is otherwise difficult to get rid of.

Which light promotes algae?

There is no light that directly hinders algae growth and at the same time promotes plant growth. Algae can only be killed or severely damaged with hard, direct UV-C radiation.

How long can the light be on in the aquarium?

Basically, a change of 12 hours is the minimum frequency with which the aquarium lighting should be switched. Professional and experienced aquarium owners leave the aquarium lighting on for a maximum of 9-11 hours, usually with a three-hour break at midday.

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Pets September 29, 2022

Planting The Back Wall Of The Aquarium – Tips And Tricks

Boring black foils are a thing of the past: Plant the back wall of your aquarium with mosses or epiphytic plants. This gives your pool a fascinating and unique look. This can happen in many different ways. If you want to plant plants on the back wall of your aquarium, you will find a few tips and tricks here.

Different types of backgrounds in the aquarium

The back wall in the aquarium can be designed in different ways. The “classics” include:

Foil for the back wall, which is applied from the outside on the back
Black or milky white foil, cardboard etc. behind the aquarium
Structural or 3D back wall that sits inside the aquarium

The third type, the structured background, is ideal for planting in the aquarium.

There is also the option of building an aquarium background yourself. Hobby hobbyists get their money’s worth here. Polystyrene, synthetic resin, stones, slate or bamboo – there are countless ideas. The internet is full of ideas and guides on the subject. 3D backgrounds, which are attached inside the aquarium, are given the icing on the cake by planting. Especially practical with the self-made version: the planting of the rear wall can be planned for when crafting.

Planting a 3D background in the aquarium: this is how it works

If you want to plant the back wall of the aquarium to get an impressive jungle look, it is best to use plants that do not need too much light. An exception are pools that are sparsely planted overall. Here, at least in the upper areas, enough light falls on the back wall of the aquarium and the plants that are supposed to grow there.

There are different ways to attach the plants to the back wall of the aquarium:

Glue the plants that you want to attach to the back wall of the aquarium with underwater glue. This method is quick and easy. However, the decision must be made quickly, because the glue hardens quickly. Subsequent redecoration is also not possible.

Carefully clamp the aquarium plants in columns on the 3D back wall. Be careful not to crush the plants as you may damage them.

Plants do not have to be planted or glued directly to the back wall in the aquarium. They can also be tied to a root with wire or string. You can find out how to do this in our article Attaching epiphytes. The root is then leaned against the back wall. Such a great layout can be created especially with several roots.

Plant the back wall in the aquarium: make a thicket of plants yourself

We introduce you to three great options for planting the back wall in the aquarium if you don’t have a structured back wall in your tank.

Glue plants to a plate with underwater glue

A completely overgrown back wall gives the pool an enchanting appearance. The easiest way to attach mosses for the aquarium. They can be glued directly to the subsurface with underwater glue. We recommend not sticking the plants directly onto the aquarium pane. It is easier for later removal to stick mosses on a thin styrofoam plate or something similar. Then it is either attached with suction cups or glued to the pane with a few dots of glue or aquarium silicone.

Buy aquarium plants on a mat and attach to the pane

A particularly simple solution: aquarium plants on a mat. For example, you can buy java fern on a mat that already comes with clips and suckers. This gives you a simple but effective decoration for the back wall of the aquarium or the side windows.

Since the mat is already densely overgrown, you don’t have to wait long: you can have larger areas of the aquarium greened in no time at all. The mat is also great for wrapping around roots.

Attach the homemade mat to the back wall of the aquarium

A popular solution is also to attach a thin filter mat or pond mat to the back wall of the aquarium. Here the plants can be attached in different ways. Mosses, but also plants such as anubias or java fern find a good hold on it. After some time, depending on the species, the plants grow into a dense green wall.

A few ways to give the plants support on the back wall of the aquarium:

Stick on with underwater glue
Secure with homemade plastic clips
To do this, cut a piece of the plastic part of a cotton swab. Cut the ends to a point. Crease it in two places. You will receive a clip that can be used to attach plants to the mat on the back wall. Later they grow tight and the clip can be removed.
Sew with nylon or fishing line
You can attach aquarium plants to the back wall with a thin fishing line. Just sew them in place with a few rough stitches. This method works very well on filter mats and pond mats.

With these tricks, you can easily create an individually planted back wall in the aquarium yourself. We hope you enjoy the planning and implementation.

Do you have any questions or suggestions about planting aquarium backgrounds? We appreciate your comments!

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